Day 9 - North Iceland - Whales, Waterfalls, and Nature Baths

I'm standing on Godafoss Waterfall

One of the things I was most excited to do was go whale watching in Iceland!  Our tour guide, Linda, signed us up for a trip out of Húsavík, a town known for excellent whale watching.  We also got a chance to see another amazing waterfall on this day called Goðafoss.  Read about our adventure here...


Day 9 - North Iceland - Whales, Waterfalls, and Nature Baths

Whale Watch Boat with North Sailing

We left Akureyri early.  Our travel agent had arranged for our guest house Gula Villan to give us a breakfast basket to go.  We drove Rt 1 to Rt 845 to Rt 85 to catch our 10 am Whale Watching tour with North Sailing.   

It had been pretty cold the past few days (40s Fahrenheit), and we were concerned that we would be freezing out on the boats.  To our surprise and relief, the boat supplied the passengers with warm coveralls to protect us.  

The sail was lovely and the crew hospitable.  The naturalist spoke in English and gave us information about the local area and resident marine mammals.  Iceland is a popular feeding ground in the summer for a number of whale species so it's not surprising that whale watch cruises do well there.  We were lucky to get views of a humpback whale, multiple minke whales, and white-beaked dolphins.  In addition, we enjoyed the beautiful views of the fjords and got lucky with some blue skies out at sea.

Bundled up in for our whale watch!

HumpbackWhale Fluke

We returned three hours later hungry and happy.  We strolled into the busy Naustid restaurant where we enjoyed delicious and heaping bowls of fish soup.  It was the perfect way to warm up after the boat trip.

Fish soup and bread at Naustid

From Húsavík, we headed back to the Ring Road (Rt 1) and retraced part of our drive that morning to see Goðafoss waterfall. From the parking lot, we could walk up to the top of the falls or down to the base on the opposite side.  The water was a turquoise color and it was definitely one of my favorite sights on the trip.  

View from base of Godafoss

Next we went to Stöng Guesthouse.  This guesthouse is off the beaten path but close to the popular tourist area of Myvatn.  It offers dinner for purchase and a continental breakfast.  There was a hot tub on the property but we didn't take advantage of it.  Instead, we decided to drive into Myvatn area to visit the well know Myvatn Nature Baths.  This large geothermal spa is very similar to the Blue Lagoon in the south.  We enjoyed soaking in the warm water and relaxing after days of exploring by car.  We were even treated to a mens' a capella choir that was singing and shooting some sort of movie in the pool! 

Myvatn Nature Baths

We visited nearby Daddi's Pizza for dinner (I mentioned Icelandic people love pizza right?) where we enjoyed a large delicious pizza at a reasonable price.  After dinner we happily returned to our guesthouse to retire.  

Between whales, waterfalls, and nature baths, North Iceland is proving to be a jewel.  

Humpback whale

READ ABOUT THE NEXT DAY HERE: Day 10 - Myvatn - Craters, Sulfur Pots, and Steam Vents

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Day 8 - Akureyri - Shopping, Food, and Drink

Akureyri

After days in the remote but beautiful Westfjords, it was almost a relief to show up in a town that had more than one place to eat.  It even had a stoplight!  We enjoyed the bustling northern town of Akureyri by shopping, going out for drinks, coffee, and meals.  Continue reading to hear about our adventure...

Columnar Basalt Cliffs in Hofsós.

Day 8 - Akureyri - Shopping, Food, and Drink

After leaving Holar, we decided to diverge from our Ring Road (Rt 1) path and take a coastal route to our next guesthouse.  We drove Rt 76 to Rt 82 back to Rt 1 to get to the town of Akureyri. It was a fairly dreary day, so we didn't make many stops, but enjoyed the mountain and coastal views from the car.

Our tour guide recommended the picturesque swimming pool in Hofsós.  Even though we weren't in a swimming mood, we decided to check it out since it was on the way.  The swimming pool was indeed in an ideal location.  Even though we didn't soak, we marveled at the tall cliffs made of columnar basalt.  Amazing!

Views along our drive to Akureyri

Local microbrew I enjoyed.

We arrived in Akureyri midday.  Nicknamed "The Capital of the North", Akureyri was a sight for sore eyes.  We hadn't realized we'd missed civilization.  Suddenly there were stores, restaurant choices, and museums!  We checked into the Gula Villan guesthouse - a sweet 1800s home converted into an adorable guesthouse and hit the town on foot.

At the Bautinn restaurant, we enjoyed a late lunch of local dishes (I had the fish hash and Einstock beer).  This was followed by walking and shopping for gifts around town.  We stepped into the Múlaberg Bistro and Cafe for coffee, hot chocolate, and cake.  We ended the night with cocktails at Hotel Kea's bar.

After long days in the Westfjords, we retired to our guesthouse for an early night.  It was fun to be in a town!

Hot Chocolate from Múlaberg Bistro and Cafe

Posing with troll sculptures on the streets of Akureyri.

Cocktails at Hotel Kea.

READ ABOUT THE NEXT DAY HERE: Day 9 - North Iceland - Whales, Waterfalls, and Nature Baths

Please leave comments or questions below, or visit us on our Facebook page at The Freelance Adventurer for more photos and stories or visit us on Instagram @FreelanceAdventurer.

Day 7 - Northwest Iceland - Black Beaches, Driftwood, and Icelandic Horses

Horseback Riding in Varmahlid with Hesa Sport.

After three days of exploring the wild Westfjords, on day 7, we returned to the Ring Road.  Our drive was gorgeous - fjords, mountains, and seashore.  An evening of riding Icleandic horses by waterfalls, farms, and mountains rounded out another beautiful day.

Day 7 - Northwest Iceland - Black Beaches, Driftwood and Icelandic Horses

Wood that drifted from Siberia.

We hit the road early, heading out of the Westfjords on Rt 68.  The drive had a large amount of gravel/dirt road but was fairly straight and manageable.  Along the coast, we saw piles of driftwood - a confusing sight since there are very few trees in the country.  A tour book informed us that the wood travels all the way from Siberia and collects on the northern shores of Iceland.  Crazy! 

We stopped for lunch in the town of Hvammstangi.  After enjoying our picnic lunch outside the Seal Museum, we got instructions to drive out to Hvítserkur - a unique and scenic seashore rock formation. 

Hvitserkur Beach

The road to Hvítserkur is dirt/gravel and passed sheep and horse farms.  There is a short trail to a viewing platform.  From here, we decided to stumble down the steep but short trail to the beach.  The isolated beach of black sand stretched for as far as the eye could see and herds of Icelandic horses ran free over the cliffs. It was a little piece of heaven!

Our next major stop was in Varmahlíð where we had scheduled an evening horseback riding trip with Hesta Sport.  We got there early, so we drove down the road to a turf church in town.  It charged for entrance so we just observed the outside.  

At Hesta Sport, we watched a 30 minute movie about the area and the Icelandic horse before heading to the stables.  We had signed up for a three hour River Delta tour. We were the only ones on our tour and our two young guides were professional and informative.  It was wonderful to see the countryside on horseback.

Icelandic Horses running alongside our car.

Our cabin in Holar.

It was late when we finished our tour.  We grabbed a dinner of burgers and fries at the service station in Varmahlíð before driving to Holar where we checked into Ferdapjonustan Holum - another converted dorm residence.  The location of this guesthouse was beautiful - nestled in a quiet valley between mountains.  We were placed in a small cabin with three beds, a kitchen, a bathroom, AND a small washing machine!  It was a relief since we had only brought one week of clothing for our two week trip and hadn't seen laundromats on our travels.  We did two loads of laundry and left the items hanging in the apartment overnight to dry.  

It was another long, but enjoyable, day in Iceland.  

Horseback Selfie

READ ABOUT THE NEXT DAY HERE: Day 8 - Akureyri - Shopping, Food, and Drink

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Day 6 - Westfjords Continued - Hot Tubs, Waterfalls, and Sorcery

Driving through the Westfjords

Our last day in the Westfjords, we drove the winding Rt 61 through six different fjords.  The drive was amazing - waterfalls falling down over the edges of the tall mountains and seascape for as far as the eye could see. Some of the highlights included: visiting the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík, hiking to a hidden waterfall behind our guesthouse, and soaking in the seaside Drangsnes hot tubs.

Views as we drive through the Westfjords

Day 6 - Westfjords Continued - Hot Tubs, Waterfalls, and Sorcery

Our day began by leaving Isafjordur and driving the winding Rt 61 back and forth through the fjords.  Most of the roads were paved - taking us up onto the top of a mountain and then back down to the sea.  We pulled over here and there to soak in the view or snap a photo.  Even in the clouds, the scenery was spectacular.

Necropants at the Sorcery Museum

We didn't have any major stops until we reached the town of Hólmavík.  This small seashore town is home to the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft.  We paid the moderate entrance fee and were given a interpretation pamphlet in English so we could understand the artifacts.  The museum was small, but provided interesting information about the history of sorcery persecution in Iceland.  There is also a cafe and gift shop in the museum.  

Since it was around lunch time, we visited the nearby Cafe Riis.  They have a comfortable atmosphere and a menu complete with traditional Icelandic meals like whale and puffin in addition to more contemporary standards like pizza and pasta.  Leanne and I tried the puffin which was well prepared and surprisingly tasted like beef!  I also tried the popular Viking beer offered on tap at most restaurants.  

Puffin Meal

From Hólmavík, we drove to nearby Laugarhóll and checked into our accommodations at Hotel Laugarhóll. This was a lovely guesthouse.  They serve dinner for about $40 (the menu looked amazing but we were stuffed).  This hotel also has a pool and geothermal hot tubs.  The owner was very friendly, and told us a local waterfall we could walk to.  There is also an adorable re-created turf home on the property that is available to explore.

We followed his directions and found the beautiful river and waterfall just a kilometer or so from our hotel.  It was gorgeous and it felt special to be the only ones there.

Waterfall was a short walk from Hotel Laugarholl.

Through social media, I found that there were seaside public hot tubs in nearby Drangsnes.  We decided to check them out.  The three tubs were located on Rt 645 on the shore side of the road.  Look for the sign of a person in a hot tub.  Soakers must shower in the private shower stalls across the road.  Even though it was cold and rainy outside, the warm soak was a magical experience - looking out onto the Atlantic.  There was no cost and we were the only ones there.  After our soak, we returned to Cafe Riis in Hólmavík for pizza, beer, and dessert.  

Drangsnes Public Hot Tubs

Our last day in the Westfjords did not disappoint.  This remote and stunning part of Iceland is home to friendly people, scenic drives, and nature at its finest.  

"Sorcerer's Hut" at Hotel Laugarholl

READ ABOUT THE NEXT DAY HERE: Day 7 - Northwest Iceland - Black Beaches, Driftwood, and Icelandic Horses

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Day 5 - Westfjords Waterfalls and Coastal Villages

Amazing Drive through the Westfjords.  Can you see me?

After a somewhat rough start to the Westfjords the day before (see post), we were excited for a fresh start to explore the area.  The adventure included driving winding and remote roads, hiking up an enormous waterfall, and exploring quaint, small towns.  In this wild and remote wilderness, we finally felt more like travelers and less like common tourists.  Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Day 5 - Westfjords Waterfalls and Coastal Villages 

Driving gravel roads up and down the fjords.

Most of the day consisted of driving through winding fjords.  The roads were sometimes paved and sometimes a dirt/gravel combo.  I was intimidated at first - worried that our little 2-wheel drive car wouldn't be able to handle the climbs.  I was wrong.  We stayed on Rt 60 for the most part and found that we could navigate the gravel roads just fine.  Nothing was as bad as the day's prior when we took Rt 614 to the Red Beach (see previous post).

Our first stop from Patreksfjörður was the Dynjandi waterfall.  This impressive series of falls totals a 100 m drop.  Visitors park at the bottom and can walk up to the base of the largest fall.  Bring a rain jacket to avoid spray!  I loved this waterfall - the series of diverse cascades all flowing down toward the fjord is a beautiful and powerful sight which was impossible to capture on camera.

Can you see the person at the base of the top falls?  Dynjandi is huge!

Our next stop was at Hranfnseyri, which Leanne coined the "church and turf".  This quick stop is a tiny, picturesque church sitting next to a turf house. The home has been recreated to represent early Icelandic homes.  There is no charge to tour the house. The site has bathrooms and coffee/pastry available for purchase.

"Church and Turf"

Driving in multi-km one-lane tunnels

We drove on and entered a new Icelandic road type: long and dark, one-lane tunnels.  These tunnels are a marvel.

Driving north through the tunnel on Rt 60, we discovered we had the right-of-way.  Oncoming traffic received a flashing light if cars were approaching and they would have to pull off onto one of the labeled safe zones.  The tunnel went on for multiple kilometers and even included a three-way intersection!

Hotel Edda rooms feel like a dorm...because they are.

The tunnel popped us out in the good-sized town of Ísafjörður. We checked into our Hotel Edda.  We stayed at multiple of these chain hotels over our trip, and I commented that it looked like a dorm room.  It turns out that's because it is one!  Icelandair converts boarding schools into low-budget guesthouses in the summer months and calls them "Hotel Edda".  They provide a reasonable dorm-style room with a shared bath.

In Ísafjörður, we walked through the town and decided to eat at Husio which served American-style meals like burgers and pizza but also had some Icelandic menu items like soup and fish.  After dinner, we walked around town some more and went back to the hotel for an early night in.

On the map, the Westfjords might lack the numerous named sites you find in southern Iceland, but don't let that fool you.  In just a couple days we witnessed hundreds of massive waterfalls, mountains, ice sheets, rare sea birds, and spectacular landscapes that should not be missed.

Just one of the unnamed, "small" waterfalls along our drive.

READ ABOUT THE NEXT DAY HERE:  Day 6 - Westfjords Continued - Hot Tubs, Waterfalls, and Sorcery

Please leave comments or questions below, or visit us on our Facebook page at The Freelance Adventurer for more photos and stories or visit us on Instagram @FreelanceAdventurer.