A Trip to Greenleaf Hut with Appalachian Mountain Club

I was lucky enough to take part in a guided hut trip with the Appalachian Mountain Club!  This is not my first trip to the high huts.  I worked for AMC from 2007-2010 and regularly took groups to the area.  This felt like a coming home as well as a reawakening to the many possibilities of the mountains and how much the AMC contributes to my hiking happiness.  

Check out the three day guided trip to Greenleaf Hut
 with Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) in the White Mountains.

If you'd like to do a guided trip, check out both the free (day hikes) and pay (overnight) trips offered by the club here.

Don't need a guide?  Book your own stay at Greenleaf Hut or another AMC facility.

Before you book, become a member.  Members get 20% off their stay as well as other discounts and benefits!

Read on to learn how to have a memorable 
adventure with AMC at Greenleaf Hut in 
the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Day 1:  The AMC Highland Center at Crawford Notch.

I arrived at AMC Highland Center in the heart of the White Mountains of New Hampshire around 5:30 pm.  Just in time for happy hour in the living room!  It was a rainy night, but the field of lupine in front of the lodge made for a welcome site.  I was given a name tag, checked into my private room/private bath, and mingled and met the rest of the group at happy hour.  

Enjoyed my first night at the Highland Center in Crawford Notch.

At 6 pm, we moved to the dining room where we enjoyed a delicious lodge dinner - served buffet style.  After dinner, we convened in one of the classrooms.  Our guides facilitated introductions, went over the hiking plan, and what we needed to pack.  Next, we were shown to the basement LL Bean gear room.  This is available to guests and participants.  It has everything from high quality hiking boots, fleeces, sleeping bags, backpacks, and more.  Many of the participants borrowed packs, boots, and rain gear.  Around 8:30 pm, we departed to our personal rooms to pack, shower, and rest up for the next day's hike.

All your gear needs will be met in the LL Bean room
available free for guests at AMC facilities.

Day 2: Hiking to Greenleaf Hut

I woke up and packed, then headed downstairs for a hearty breakfast from the lodge cafeteria. We got a weather update and set out.  Our trailhead was a short drive away.  We were offered to either be transported by van or travel alone.  I took my car to cut down on the next day's drive.

We arrived at the Old Bridle Path trailhead in Franconia Notch around 8 am.  Our lead naturalist, Nancy, gave a rundown on some of the flora and fauna we might see on the trail and we took off at a moderate pace. 

Trailhead - 2.9 miles to our destination.

 A ways up the trail, we reached a section that was being worked on by the Appalachian Mountain Club's professional trail crew.  I was amazed to see their beautiful work and learned about the "Restoring the Ridge" project - a collaboration between the federal government and Appalachian Mountain club - to preserve this iconic loop hike for generations to come.  We also learned that our AMC membership helps this project!  

AMC professional trail crew makes steps
that will last generations and handle thousands
of yearly visitors and harsh weather.

This project combines federal dollars with
AMC funds from your membership.

Soon, we popped out onto a ledge.  While the Franconia ridge above was still in the clouds, we were able to see views of the valley below.  While taking a restful snack break, our naturalist brought our attention to various bird calls.

We take a break along Old Bridle Path.

The trail got steeper as we approached the hut.  When we got to Greenleaf hut, it was hugged by a cloud.  Now, around 1 pm, we were ready for our trail lunch (given/packed by the Highland Center kitchen).  After choosing a bunk in the hut, we sat on the porch and enjoyed our lunch.  

Bunks come with a pillow and three wool blankets. 
Bring sheets or sleeping sack/bag.

We still had plenty of time until dinner, so even though the visibility wasn't great, we decided to summit Mt Lafayette.  Hoping the clouds would clear by the time we got up there, we continued up into the alpine zone.  Nancy pointed out new plants off the trail.  In about an hour, we reached the ridgeline.  Unfortunately, there was no view due to clouds and mist, but that's ok.  We descended off Lafayette, back to the hut.  

We were treated to an informative talk about the climate science done by AMC scientists as well as their citizen science programs.  We also learned about the hut systems that makes it sustainable in the peaks.

Greenleaf Hut is run by Appalachian Mountain Club. 
In summer, it is a full service hut with bathrooms, meals, and beds.  Reserve online.

Dinner was multiple courses - served family style at long tables. You won't go hungry!  The food was both delicious and plentiful.  After dinner, guests read from the library, played games, and chatted before quiet hours at 9:30 pm.  Around sunset, the clouds cleared and we were treated to views of the magnificent Franconia Ridge!  It was a welcome site for guests and staff!

Day 3: Summit views and hiking down

The hut croo (yes, that's how they spell it), woke us up to some soft singing at 6:30 am.  We got up, dressed, and packed and then had a delicious breakfast in the dining room at 7 am.  After breakfast, the group discussed our goals.  Half of the group was ready to take Bridle Path down to return home before noon.  Some of us (me included), wanted to summit Mt Lafayette once more to get a summit view.  With multiple leaders, we were able to split the group.

Morning light streams in at Greenleaf hut -
laid out for breakfast.

As our group moved up the mountain, the clouds came rolling back in.  Fortunately for us, however, we were able to get a ridge view (with clouds) from the top.  

Arguably Mt Lafayette is one of the best views in the White Mountains.

After a leisurely summit break, our small group worked our way back to the hut.  After a bathroom break, we chose to take a different trail down - the Greenleaf Trail.  Some highlights of this trail included mossy "fairy forest" and Eagle cliff.  

Our guides brought us back to our cars two exits down the road.  It was a sunny, warm summer day and couldn't have been a better end to the trip.

Eagle Cliff along the Greenleaf Trail

Want to try this experience?

Go to AMC activities, and check out the backpacking options.

or

Hike yourself without a guide!  Book your hut stay!

and

Become a member to support the trail work, science, and recreation by Appalachian Mountain Club.

Want to see more video and photos from this trip? Check out more on my instagram account the @freelanceadventurer

Highly recommend going on a guided trip with Appalachian Mountain Club.

You might also like these adventures:

Carter Notch Hut in Winter
Lonesome Lake - Perfect Family Hike
24 Hour Affordable Getaway in the White Mountains

Owl's Head 1 Night Backpack - The Most Remote 4000 footer

After our successful summer backpack to peak bag Mt. Isolation, Kelsey and I decided why not to use the same strategy to conquer the most remote 4,000 footer peak on New Hampshire's 48 list - Owl's Head.  

Owl's Head is located in the heart of the Pemigewasset  Wilderness.  The only way to access the summit is by first hiking into the center of this wilderness area, and then climbing up a steep slide.  As a day hike on maintained trails, this hike is 9.1 miles one way.  I know my knees...and an 18.2 mile day is not a great option for me. Our plan was to hike in, summit, then spend the night.  Making two days of about 9 miles each.  

The day before our backpack, a torrential storm doused the region with +6 in of rain and caused all the waterways to swell.  This wasn't good for us.  We had many water crossings.  So, we regrouped and decided to take the well known "Black Pond Bushwhack" which would eliminate all but two of the water crossings.  This plan proved to be extremely successful!  We had a really enjoyable time in the Pemi for a night and we were spoiled with perfect fall weather, foliage, and no bugs.  

Fall backpacking means mild weather and no bugs!

Here's how to recreate this adventure:

Adventure

One Night Backpack to Owl's Head Peak in the White Mountains, New Hampshire

Getting There

This hike is accessible from one of the most popular trailheads in the Whites - The Lincoln Woods Trailhead.  Located just 4 miles down the Kancamagus Highway from the town of Lincoln, this parking area is easily accessible.  However, it fills quickly.  Knowing it was going to be a nice fall weekend, we arrived at 8 am.  There were still a few spots left in the lot.  Parking costs $5 a day here.  Bring cash or a check.  We used our national park pass so didn't have to pay the iron ranger.

Trail

From Lincoln Woods Trailhead, we took the Lincoln Woods Trail to the Black Pond Trail.  At Black Pond, we continued onto the Black Pond Bushwhack (not marked).  This bushwhack took us to Lincoln Brook trail and cut out many river crossings and shortened the hike by a mile! Next, we took Lincoln Brook and set up camp at our first large river crossing (see below).  We did both river crossings and took Owl's Head path up the slide to the summit.  Coming off the summit, we opted to take the Brutus Bushwhack back to Lincoln Brook and return to camp.  The following day we returned to parking the same way we arrived.  

Our Route

Here is a more detailed itinerary:

Start - 8:30 am - We sign into the ranger log, cross the Lincoln Woods pedestrian bridge and head north on Lincoln Woods trail.  The river was raging and the fall foliage peak. It was a long, flat walk but really really beautiful. There weren't many other hikers at this time of day. We 

Black Pond - We turn off the Lincoln Woods trail and hike the 0.8 mile trail to Black Pond.  This trail had a slight uphill grade but was still pretty easy.  It went through hardwoods forest and emerged with a beautiful view of a small mirrored pond and mountains behind it.  

Black Pond Bushwhack -  Although the trail officially ends with the pond on the right.  We continued straight onto the bushwhack.  Knowing we wouldn't have cell service, we had downloaded the Gaia and AllTrails maps.  Even without cell service, we were able to follow our trek on the digital maps.  While the bushwhack is fairly obvious, the recent dropped leaves made it somewhat challenging to follow the trail.  Both these maps systems are only available for subscription holders.

Lincoln Brook Trail  - 10:30 am - The bushwhack popped us out at the Lincoln Brook trail. We turned left and followed the trail as it parallels Lincoln brook.  The trail is fairly easy - a low inclining grade with few challenges except for some mud and puddles.  It is not blazed (which really surprised me).

River Crossing and Camp - 12:00 pm - At noon, we reached the first crossing of Lincoln Brook.  Kelsey noticed the cliff above us has a plateau and scrambles up to find a nice dispersed/impacted camp site.  We set up our tent, have a lunch break and pack small bags for the rest of our journey.  After securing camp, we cross this section and soon after another.  Kelsey stayed dry with waterproof boots and gaiters.  I brought a pair of sneakers to get wet wading the crossings.  

Owl's Head Path/Slide - After the crossings, we found the two cairns that signal the Owl's Head Path.  The climb is steep and involves quite a bit of lose rock.  As we climbed the slide, the views behind us got better and better.  It was a clear day and we had fun identifying the various peaks of Franconia Ridge.  We paused for a long break and enjoyed the view. 

Summit - 2:40 pm - After the slide, the hike continues through woods, past a false summit and eventually ends at lack luster small cairn signaling the true summit.  Prior to this, however, you get one more small view of the Bonds across the Pemi.  We summited at 2:40 pm, took a selfie and then turned around.  

Brutus Bushwhack - At 3:10, we reached the offshoot to the Brutus Bushwhack.  Again, our Gaia maps were very helpful in finding this.  The bushwhack is located near the end of the slide at a large moss covered boulder.  The day we did it,there was also a small cairn at it's base and on its top.  The bushwhack is steep but on soft ground through the woods.  It was a little tricky to follow at times, but eventually we got back to Lincoln Brook path - very close to the second water crossing.  

Camp - 4:10 pm - We crossed both rivers again and returned to our camp just after 4 pm.  We made an early dinner, filtered water from the brook, changed into warm clothes, played cards and were in bed by 7 pm.  We secured food using an ursack.  In the morning, we got up around 7 am, made breakfast, packed up and took off at 8:20 am.

Brutus Bushwhack - 9:25 am - About an hour later, we reached the Brutus Bushwhack.  We retraced our steps back to the pond, then Lincoln Woods Trail.  We got back to the parking lot at 11:30 am.  Our hike was complete!

Lincon Woods Trail

Rules and Regulations

Disperse Camping

You do not need a permit to hike and camp in this region. Disperse camping is camping outside a designated campground or tent site.  It is not allowed everywhere so make sure you know the rules and regulations of the area you are planning to camp.  The section of trail we camped (Lincoln Brook Trail) is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness that is part of the White Mountain National Forest.  Rules for this area are:

• Limit group size to 10 people
• Camp at designated sites OR at least 200 feet away from trail, water source, or campground.
• No mechanized equipment is allowed

You can learn more about these rules on the US Forest Service Website.

In addition, it's important to practice Leave No Trace including the proper disposal of human waste and removal of all toilet paper and trash.

Water was easily accessible from the river, but it is important to treat water since it can harbor pathogens and bacteria - even in the wilderness.  I used the Sawyer Squeeze as my main form of water treatment.  

Lastly, I recommend purchasing and carrying a New Hampshire Hike Safe Card.  For $25 a year, you are covered financially if you need to be rescued.

Our Campsite

Gear and Apparel

For a fall one night backpack in the White Mountains I brought the following:

• 10 Essentials - My choices for products are on my Hiking Necessities List.  This includes first aid, hat, compass, headlamp, and more
• Tent and Tent Accessories
• Trekking Poles
• Sleeping Bag
• Sleeping Pad
• Stove, Pot, Fuel
• Bear Bag
• Food for Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch and Snacks
• Bag with electronics: Charger, cord, lantern
• Clothes: Rain gear, puffy coat/mid layer, sun shirt, base layer/sleeping layer, extra underwear and socks, extra shorts, camp shoes (crocs)
• Trash bag
• Water filter
• Poo trowel, toilet paper, and bags to hike out with it
• Toiletries: Sunscreen, bug spray, toothbrush, toothpaste
• Deck of cards

For questions about gear, DM on my instagram and I'm happy to provide guidance!

Kelsey and I at the summit of Owl's Head

Final Recommendations/Things to Consider

• This was a great one night backpack for someone who wants a quick escape.  Although most of the hike is easy, the scramble up Owl's Head Path is challenging and would be quite dangerous in foul weather.    Be prepared and turn around if you are above your ability level.
• Always tell someone your plan.  For safety, carry the 10 essentials.  You will not have cell service any of this hike.
• I suggest downloading a set of maps from Gaia or AllTrails prior to your hike.  Bring a cell phone battery pack to make sure you don't lose access to those maps.  In addition, carry a traditional map and compass.
• In order to reduce weight while summiting, you can set up your camp and then ascend with a "slack pack".  
• Be aware of wildlife. This is quite a remote area of the Whites.

Beautiful Views on the Slide

You might also like these adventures:

- One night on Mt Liberty
- Carter Notch One Nighter in Winter
- Mt Garfield One Night Backpack
- One Night Backpack up Mt Isolation

Morning light on the Lincoln Brook Trail

White Mountains One Night Backpack: Mount Isolation

Want to check off another 4,000 footer while spending the night in the Presidentials?  So did I!  Tackling Mt. Isolation as an over-nighter turned out to be the perfect one night backpack in the White Mountains.  

Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure

One night backpacking trip on Mt. Isolation in the White Mountains

Getting there

This hike starts from the Rocky Branch Trailhead on Route 16 in Pinkham Notch, New Hampshire.  To get there, take Route 16/White Mountain Highway north through North Conway.  Where 302 and 16 split, take a right and continue on NH-16 into Pinkham Notch.  After about 8 miles, turn left onto Popple Mount Trail.  The parking lot is a good size and is free to park.  It is possible that it will fill on busy summer weekends so plan accordingly.  

Many river crossings on Isolation Trail

Trail

The total mileage for this backpack is 13.3 miles and 3,503 ft of elevation gain.  It is an out and back hike that includes three different trails to summit. Overall, this hike is moderate difficulty. Terrain is not technical.  Although there are many river crossings, in July of 2022 when I did it, water was generally low and it was easy to rock hop across. It is possible to do a similar hike by making it an *almost* loop.  See below under recommendations for this alternate.

Part 1 - Rocky Branch Trail

The first part of this backpack is a stead climb up the Rocky Branch Trail.  The trail is well marked (yellow blazes) and climbs through deciduous hardwood forest.  We saw moose scat and even saw a moose!  I startled it by accident about 20 yards away and never got another look. There is no real water access along this portion of the trail.  At 3.7 miles from the trailhead, Rocky Branch reaches a junction with Isolation Trail.

Part 2 - Isolation Trail

Rocky Branch trail crosses the Rocky Branch River at 3.7 miles.  Immediately after, there is a well marked trail junction sign.  To continue to Mt. Isolation, turn right.  Over the next 2.6 miles of trail, hikers parallel the Rocky Branch River and cross it many times. The trail is well marked and easy to follow will only slight elevation gain.  It is this section of trail that is best for dispersed camping. I noticed many impacted dispersed sites along this section of the trail as well as trodden spur trails that led to other sites.  One of the largest was just after the second river crossing on the opposite side of the river.  Further on, there was an official sign indicating a spot to disperse camp on the west side of the river.  My friend Kelsey and I scoped multiple sites along the way, planning on picking one that would best fit our needs on our descent. 

Part 3 - Davis Path

After 2.6 miles on the Isolation Trail (6.3 total), the trail reaches an intersection with the Davis Path.  From here, take a left and climb the moderate climb 0.9 miles to the summit of Mt. Isolation. The spur trail to the summit is on the right and not marked so don't miss it!  Climb the sport spur and enjoy expansive views of the Presidentials including Mt. Washington.  

Water break on Isolation Trail

Part 4 - Descend and Find Camp

As we descended, we discussed our favorite places we had scoped to disperse camp.  We ended up deciding on a small plateau about 300 feet off the final river crossing of the Rocky Branch river on the Isolation Trail.  This spot was chosen due to it's proximity to a deep "swimming hole" next to a massive boulder.  My hiking companion, Kelsey, loves to swim when hiking and she was excited to chill out here.  We found an already impacted site and evidence of an old fire ring off trail and a flat spot just big enough for our tent.  We set up camp and did our cooking (using a backcountry stove) down by the river to keep food smells away from where we slept.  At night, we put all food, smelly toiletries like toothpaste, and trash in my Ursack Bear-proof bag and hung it down by the river away from our tent.  In the morning, we had breakfast, packed up and hiked out.

Dispersed campsite on Isolation Trail

Rules and Regulations

Disperse Camping

You do not need a permit to hike and camp in this region. Disperse camping is camping outside a designated campground or tentsite.  It is not allowed everywhere so make sure you know the rules and regulations of the area you are planning to camp.  The section of trail we camped (Isolation Trail) is in the Dry River Wilderness that is part of the White Mountain National Forest.  Rules for this area are:

• Limit group size to 10 people
• Camp at designated sites OR at least 200 feet away from trail, water source, or campground.
• No mechanized equipment is allowed

You can learn more about these rules on the US Forest Service Website.

In addition, it's important to practice Leave No Trace including the proper disposal of human waste and removal of all toilet paper and trash.

Water was easily accessible from the river, but it is important to treat water since it can harbor pathogens and bacteria - even in the wilderness.  I used the Sawyer Squeeze as my main form of water treatment.  

Lastly, I recommend purchasing and carrying a New Hampshire Hike Safe Card.  For $25 a year, you are covered financially if you need to be rescued.

Swimming hole near camp * It was very cold*

Gear and Apparel

For a summer one night backpack in the White Mountains I brought the following:

• 10 Essentials - My choices for products are on my Hiking Necessities List.  This includes first aid, hat, compass, headlamp, and more
• Tent and Tent Accessories
• Trekking Poles
• Sleeping Bag
• Sleeping Pad
• Stove, Pot, Fuel
• Bear Bag
• Food for Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch and Snacks
• Bag with electronics: Charger, cord, lantern
• Clothes: Rain gear, puffy coat/mid layer, sun shirt, base layer/sleeping layer, extra underwear and socks, extra shorts, camp shoes (crocs)
• Trash bag
• Water filter
• Poo trowel, toilet paper, and bags to hike out with it
• Toiletries: Sunscreen, bug spray, toothbrush, toothpaste
• Deck of cards

For questions about gear, DM on my instagram and I'm happy to provide guidance!

Summit of Mt. Isolation

Final Recommendations/Things to Consider

• This was a great one night backpack for someone who wants a quick escape.  Although I list this as a moderate climb, it is still a 4,000 footer in the White Mountains and challenging compared to flatland hiking.  Be prepared and turn around if you are above your ability level.
• Always tell someone your plan.  For safety, carry the 10 essentials.  You will not have cell service for most of this hike although I did have 2 bars on the summit of Mt. Isolation.
• To make this a sort of loop, hikers can ascend via the Glen Boulder Trail and descend on Rocky Branch.  This would mean either having two cars or having a couple mile road walk up NH-16 back to your car.
• In order to reduce weight while summiting, you can set up your camp and then ascend with a "slack pack".  We originally planned to do this but then changed our minds in case we found a better campsite on the Davis Path.  Now we know that all the good camp spots are along the Isolation Trail near the brook.
• Be aware of wildlife.  We startled a moose!

You might also like these adventures:

- One night on Mt Liberty
- Carter Notch One Nighter in Winter
- Mt Garfield One Night Backpack

One Night on Mt. Liberty

Summit of Mt. Liberty

With my big trip to Iceland, I didn't go on my usual summer backpack trips, and I've been aching to sleep in the woods.  With the weather turning cooler, I decided I better get out before I lost my opportunity for the year.  Fortunately, my friend Jenny, took me up on a last minute invite to spend the night near the summit of Mt. Liberty at the Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We were rewarded with early fall weather, summit sunsets, and a pleasant hike. Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Mt. Liberty Overnight Backpack

Jenny on the Liberty Spring Trail

Getting There:  Mt. Liberty is located along the famous and often visited Franconia Ridge in the White Mountains.  To get to the trailhead, I took I-93 north into Franconia Notch State Park.  You can park at either The Flume or The Basin parking area.  I choose The Basin.  Both parking areas are free to park and have pit toilets.  To access the trail, walk south on the paved bike path about 0.8 miles until you reach the Appalachian Trail/Liberty Springs trailhead.  Your hike starts here.

Trail:  We took the Liberty Springs Trail from the bike path all the way to the tentsite and summit.  This is also part of the Appalachian Trail and is marked with white blazes.  The first 0.6 miles gradually rises through a hardwood forest.  At 0.6 miles, you reach the junction of the Flume Slide Trail with the Liberty Spring Trail.  Many hikers choose to take this offshoot to the ridge at Mt. Flume and then loop back to Mt. Liberty.  I've tried it in the past and while it's enjoyable and fun, the Flume Slide Trail is challenging and difficult.  I decided it wouldn't be as fun with my large backpacking pack.

Loving Nature on the Franconia Ridge

From the junction, the trail gradually meandered up through the forest, crossing over a moderate river crossing (not bad in fall).  As we crossed into the boreal zone of conifers and evergreens, the trails steepness increased and the last 1.5 miles was like a long rock staircase.  The challenge of the hike came in the consistent steady uphill, but I would categorize it as fairly moderate since there was little to no slab or technical hiking involved.

At around 2 miles, we reached Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We checked in with the cartaker (still manned through September), paid our $8 a piece fee and were assigned our platform.  Due to to the high numbers of campers, we had to share a platform with another small tent.  Our AMC caretaker warned us of increased bear activity and reminded us to cook in the assigned area away from the tentsites and to keep all food and food-related materials in the bear boxes.

Rainy hike down...bring the right gear!

Jenny and I set up camp and left again to reach the summit.  Back on the trail, it was another 0.3 miles or so to the ridge junction.  From here, we turned right on the Franconia Ridge trail.  We hiked through low trees on a gradual rise until we popped out on the rocky summit of Mt. Liberty (about 0.3 miles from junction).  We reached the summit around 6:30 pm - just in time to admire the sun setting behind the western mountains.

We returned to camp, made our delicious dinner of burritos and settled into our tent for a cool night under the stars.

In the morning, we packed up and returned the same way - 2 miles back down the Liberty Spring Trail to the bike trail and 0.8 miles back up to The Basin parking lot.

Difficulty:  Moderate in fair weather

Bear Watch at Liberty Spring Tentsite

Distance: 5.2 miles on the trail (including summit) plus 1.6 miles on the bike path to the parking lot = 6.8 miles total.

AMC Liberty Spring Tentsite: The Appalachian Mountain Club maintains shelters and tentsites in the White Mountains.  During the busy season, a caretaker is there to help assign tent platforms, maintain the privy, and aid hikers.  There is an $8 fee per person.  This gives you access to the privy toilet (bring your own toilet paper!), bear boxes, and a water source.  In the summer the tentsites and shelters fill quickly, especially on weekends.  Make sure you get to your site early.  Even through it was mid-September, Liberty Spring Tentsite was completely booked by the end of the night.  We got there around 5 pm and there were still spots (although we had to share a platform).  This is a great way to backpack through the Whites with limited impact and guaranteed water/tentsite.

Recommendations:

- Check the Weather - Franconia Ridge is notorius for high winds and variable weather.  Although it was easily 80 F in The Basin parking lot, it was a cool 40 with windchill at Mt. Liberty summit.  We experienced hours of downpour overnight and woke up to drizzle in the morning.  Fortunately, we had checked the weather and were prepared with rain gear and warm layers.

View of Mt. Lafayette and Cannon Mountain from Liberty.

- Gear - Know what you need for an overnight.  Besides a tent, sleeping bag, and pad - overnight hikers need to be prepared with extra water, water purifier, stove, food, warm layers, and extra first aid materials.

Experiences sunset on the Franconia Ridge was a magical experience.  By spending a night up at Liberty Spring Tentsite, Jenny and I got to enjoy some of the best views and camping in the White Mountains at the beginning of fall.  I highly recommend a night near the ridge.

Please leave comments and questions below.  Don't forget to visit us on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TheFreelanceAdventurer

You might also enjoy...

Pemigewasset One Night Backpack

Baldface Weekend Backpack

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Happy hikers on the AT!

Carter Notch Hut in Winter

Clear winter morning at Carter Notch Hut.

When my west-coast sister came out to New Hampshire for a few days,her one request was "Take me on a winter adventure!"  I decided to take her to my beloved White Mountain wilderness.  I booked us one night at the Carter Notch Hut - an Appalachian Mountain Club hut that serves as a self service accommodation in winter.  We experienced smooth, snow-packed trail, cold nights, and comforting fellowship. 

Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure:  Carter Notch Hut overnight


Getting There: We took the 19 Mile Brook Trail out-and-back to access the Carter Notch Hut. 

19 Mile Brook Trailhead

This trail can be accessed on Rt 16 about 2-5 miles north of AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center/Joe Dodge Lodge.  To get there from Boston/Southern New Hampshire, take 1-95 North to the Spaulding Turnpike (Route 16) North.  It is approximately a 3 hour drive from Boston/2.5 hour from Exeter, New Hampshire.  After you pass Wildcat Ski area, the trail head is 1-2 miles further on the right and marked with a small "hiker" sign.  Parking is free in the winter but requires a National Forest park pass (purchasable at map/sign) in summer.  There are no bathrooms at the trail head. 

Trail:  We took the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail 1.9 miles to the Carter Dome Trail/Nineteen Mile Brook Trail junction.  This section is a mild ascent through boreal/evergreen forest.  The snowy and flowing Nineteen Mile Brook parallels the trail and at times, the two cross.  In winter, these crossings were easy.  From the junction, we continued on Nineteen Mile Brook Trail for 1.7 miles.  The trail continued with a moderate ascent.  A thick layer of packed snow made it easy on our knees.  Impressively, there was little ice, and although we had

Packed snow on 19 Mile Brook Trail

packed crampons and microspikes, we never felt the need to strap them on!  As we approached the hut, we got views of frozen alpine ponds and peeks of the steep cliffs of Wildcat Mountain on our right.  Near the hut, we linked up with the AT/Carter Moriah Trail for the last 0.1 mile to Carter Notch Hut.   Our hike up was moderate and gentle mountain climb through snow filled forest on a cold day.
The next morning, we returned the same way.

Difficulty: Due to perfect snow pack conditions, our trail was an easy to moderate climb.  However, bitterly cold weather and unpredictable winter conditions make this an adventure that should only be attempted by hikers with winter hiking experience and proper safety gear.

Distance: 7.2 miles round trip.  It took us 2.5 hours to make it up to the hut and about an hour back.

Carter Notch Hut:   Carter Notch Hut is a hundred-year-old mountain hut located in the valley

Carter Notch Hut

between Wildcat Mountain and Carter Dome.  In the summer, a team of staff members cook meals, provide bedding, and guide visitors who stay the night.  This is called the "full-service season".  In winter months, the hut changes over to a "self-service" facility.  One AMC staff member cares for the hut and helps guests who stay.  For a reasonable overnight fee ($26 for AMC members/$31 for nonmembers), guests get access to the kitchen (stove, dishes, and oven), as well as a bunk in the non-heated bunkhouse, and toilets.  After dark, the caretaker also runs a fire in the wood stove to warm guests and dry gear. 

On this 20 degree hiking day, Kelly and I greatly appreciated the access to hot water for drinks, a warm dinner and snuggle by the fire before dipping into our freezing bunkroom.  The crew member, Liz, was knowledgeable, welcoming, and helpful.  To pass the evening, Kelly and I took photos, explored the area, played cards, and chatted with Liz.  We made a hot dinner and sipped a cup of wine before heading to bed.  We had a memorable and peaceful experience at this iconic hut.

Inside of Carter Notch Hut

Recommendations: 

Gear -  This overnight trek is not for those who fear the cold.  We chose a very cold (but beautiful)

Crossing frozen pond in Carter Notch

weekday evening to make this trek.  Adventurers should bring proper winter hiking and safety equipment including: multiple warm/non-cotton layers, winter gloves, shell, warm hat, ski pants, long underwear, warm socks, winter boots, trekking poles, and boot traction (snowshoes, microspikes, or crampons).  Also, bring food for all meals, 2L of water per day (clean water available at hut), headlamp, map, compass, and first aid kit. 

It is VERY important you bring a sleeping bag that can handle the cold temperatures.  Kelly used a -30 degrees bag that kept her toasty in the frigid temps.  I brought a 20 degree bag along with a bivy - unfortunately - THIS WAS NOT WARM ENOUGH!  I was very uncomfortable and ended up cuddling up with my sister and sharing the roomy -30 bag. 

Reservations - We made our reservations weeks ahead online at outdoors.org, but since we went mid-week, it turned out that we were the only guests that night at the hut.

This was a wonderful way to experience winter hiking in the Northeast!  It was fun showing my sister the beauty of our winters.  The morning we woke up at the hut was clear and blue skies.  We marveled at the shear cliffs of Wildcat Mountain and Carter Dome that loomed above us and the twinkling white of the snow filled notch. I can't wait for the next adventure with my wonderful sister!

For another winter overnight, check out former blog posts below:
Cold Night on the Mountain

A great way to spend time with my sister.

Please leave comments and questions below. 

Featured in Backpacker Magazine



Cover to January Backpacker

 

 


The Freelance Adventure is branching out!
If you subscribe to Backpacker Magazine, check out the January Issue!  I was fortunate to participate in their Reader's Choice panel representing the Northeast United States.  The magazine has chosen my favorite backpack, peak bagging backpack, and Massachusetts day hike as three featured hikes.  It's wonderful to share ideas and learn about other great hikes chosen by readers.  Check it out!

Pemigewasset One Night Backpack

Summit of Mt. Garfield, White Mountains

Jenny and I took off for a early fall weekend in the White Mountains.  Only having the typical work weekend, we searched for a one night backpack that would offer moderate terrain, AMC shelter, and a summit view.  Our prescription was filled by a one-night backpack up the Mt. Garfield trail.  This 10 mile round trip out-and-back hike took us through a unique hemlock forest, along rivers, and to one of the best views in the Whites - the summit of Mt. Garfield. 

Here is how to recreate this adventure...  

Hemlock Forest - first mile of trail

Adventure:  Mt. Garfield One Night Backpack

Getting there:  The trailhead to Mt. Garfield Trail is located off Route 3 in Bethlehem, NH.  We drove up I-93 through Franconia Notch State Park and took exit 35.  From here, we took Route 3 about 5 miles to the first right.  This is the Gale River Loop Road.  Take the loop road (closed in winter) about 1-2 two miles to the trailhead parking area.  The trailhead is marked by a "hiker" sign and trail map.  There is no charge for parking and there are no bathrooms at the trailhead. 

Trail: This is the perfect 4,000-footer for a timid backpacker, family, or person with bad knees.  The hike lacks many of the rocky climbs and steep ledges of its other Presidential counterparts.  The trail begins by climbing a gentle, needle-padded trail through a forest of large hemlocks.  I love this part of the trail because it reminds me of the Oregon trails of my childhood.  The trail here is easy and pleasant.  At around 2 miles, you have a fun little river crossing.  On the way up, Jenny and I easily crossed the gently brook, but after a night of torrential downpour, we had a hard time finding a path back across.  As a result, we got some wet toes, but it made a fun little challenge. 
 

Stream Crossing on Garfield Trail

After the river-crossing, the trail ascends gently and easily through the typical hardwood forest of New England.  The trail is even and steady - with a few stones in the trail but nothing horrible.  The last 0.2 mile of the hike is really the only part I'd call "moderately challenging".  Here, you reach the junction of Mt. Garfield trail and the Garfield Ridge Trail (AT).  Jenny and I dropped our packs and scurried up the last 0.2 miles to the summit of Garfield.  This bare peak at 4,500 ft offers 360 degree views of the Pemigewasset, or "Pemi" wilderness.  To the east, the Bonds, scraped and scuffed by rock and glacier, give me a glimpse of one of my favorite White Mountain Hikes.  To the west, the Franconia Ridge rises magnificent, with many of the tallest peaks in the area.  In the center of the bowl is Owl's Head Peak - another one of the beloved 4,000 footers. Lastly, to the northeast, you can even get a glimpse of the summit of Mt. Washington. 

View from summit of Mt. Garfield - Pemi Wilderness

Jenny and I enjoyed a reward of "trail mix cookies" on the summit, took photos, and reveled in the view.  We sought shelter behind the rocks and in the old foundation of a fire tower since wind gusts were reaching 70 mph!

After our well deserved break, we descended back to the AT junction, grabbed out packs, and detoured onto the Garfield Ridge Trail.  This rocky path, takes you down another 0.2 miles to the Garfield Ridge Campsite where we spent the night. 

Our morning hike was just the reverse of our previous day, taking us back down the 5 miles of the Mt. Garfield trail to the parking lot. 

This is an easy to moderate trail - and in my opinion, the easiest 4,000 footer ascent in the White Mountains (although not the shortest).  It was the perfect pick for a leisurely hike to a magnificent view. 

70 mph gust winds at summit

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate - the only moderately challenging section is the last quarter mile
to the summit. 

Distance:  5 miles to summit/ Total backpack was about 11 miles. 

Recommendations

Trail - This is an easy to moderate trail.  I recommend this as an excellent first time backpacking trip for someone looking to get into the hobby.

The stream crossing was probably the most challenging part on the rainy descent.  It was very helpful to have trekking poles here to steady myself across. 


Campsite - The Garfield Ridge Campsite is excellent.  This large AMC site offers tent-platforms, views, water, bear box, privy, and a superb four-sided shelter.  Jenny and I decided to stay in the shelter to reduce pack weight and avoid the predicted evening storm.  We were very comfortable inside - sharing the space with eight other people.  We loved the experience of meeting the other hikers.  One group of over-50-year-old-men were tackling the Pemi Loop, while the other group of the three were from upstate NY and had decided to forgo the Adirondacks to experience their first White Mountain hike. 

Comfy Hiker Shelter at Garfield Ridge Campsite

The Garfield site is manned by an AMC shelter caretaker through Columbus Day weekend, and we had to pay $8 a person to stay there.  Since we were visiting in September, the campsite had plenty of space for all, but having been there in August in the past, I can advise that the beloved site gets crowded and even fills up in the summer.  If you are planning on staying here, it's best to get to camp early or plan on finding alternative camping in the busy summer months. 




In the Pack - the shelter offers a privy, bear box, and water source, but first time visitors should be aware that the tentsite does not offer toilet paper nor "filtered water".  Plan on purifying your water with chemicals or by boiling, and bring some TP for the privy. 
 
This one mile backpack offered easy to moderate trail, great views, and comfy camping accommodations,- all while ascending over 3,000 feet and hiking over 10 miles.  It's a great choice for a weekend in the Whites. 

Another great friend trip in the wilderness!

Please leave comments and questions below!