Guest Post: Best of the Best - Portland, Maine

As fall begins, consider squeezing in a visit to tourist-friendly Portland, Maine. Planning a trip after Labor Day ensures you beat the crowds. Here are the places you need to know for the best day experience.

Eastern "Prom" - Portland, Maine

Walk: Portland Trails*: Back Cove Trail

Distance: 3.5 miles

Difficulty: Easy

Parking: Free at lot across from Hannaford on Preble Street Extension

The Back Cove Trail is a loop trail (3.5 miles) which boasts beautiful views of the Portland skyline, the occasional marsh wildlife such as Great Blue Herons, and perfect for walking, running, and biking. The terrain is with mostly flat except along a stretch that parallels I-295. There are benches and water fountains (seasonal) along the trail.

*A network of trails in greater Portland, free for public access. Full map here: http://trails.org/our-trails/

Hilltop Superette Counter

Lunch with a View: Hilltop Superette @ 135 Congress St.

Fare: Deli style sandwiches, pizza ($1.79 slices), and hamburgers

The 80-year-old store has been recently raised back from the ashes as it was nearly destroyed by arson last year (previously Colucci’s). Now the local market (opened July 2014) is bustling in the Munjoy Hilll neighborhood. The menu boasts local produce and breads from Borealis Breads. I highly recommend the Italians, especially the Spicy Superette if you like a little kick. Grab a bag of chips to share, drinks, and walk down the street towards the Eastern Promenade for a picnic style lunch with a view of Casco Bay and surrounding islands.

Infinity Beer Barrels

Beer: Bunker Brewing Company @ 122 Anderson St.

Summer Hours: Thurs & Fri 5-8pm, Sat 12-5    Call before stopping by

Website: http://bunkerbrewingco.com/

This microbrewery was established in 2011 and has quickly made a name for itself. Nestled off Anderson St. in a 1920s era brick garage in the developing neighborhood of East Bayside. You will experience a small artisan brewery that founders Chresten Sorensen and Jay Villani believe to be the future of beer. If you appreciate a good pilsener try their Machine Czech Pils (flagship brew). The Peninsula Pale Ale is a local favorite. Feed your competitive edge and challenge your party (or locals) to a game of corn hole just outside the garage.

Dinner: Corner Room @ 110 Exchange St.

Fare: Italian Kitchen & Bar

Happy Hour: Mon-Thurs  4-6pm (complimentary tapas to pair with drinks)

Late Night Menu: Thurs-Sat ‘Til 11pm

Website (menu): http://www.thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com/

Corner Room Restuarant

An open kitchen restaurant invokes a warm and cozy atmosphere with house-made pastas, pizzas, antipasti, and artisanal breads made from local ingredients. Small patio available for dining. The Corner Room is one of the four “Rooms” restaurants owned by chef Harding Lee Smith.

Dessert: Bar of Chocolate @ 38 Wharf St.

Fare: Wine, Dessert, and Espresso Bar

Hours: 4pm-12am everyday

Walk down Exchange St. to Wharf St. and the Bar of Chocolate after dinner at the Corner Room. This the perfect place to visit after a nice meal and its hidden in plain sight! Wharf Street is in the absolute heart of the old port and is one of the few historic cobble stone streets remaining. The Bar of Chocolate is small and cozy and always has excellent locally made treats stocked in the dessert case ranging from flour-less chocolate cake to blueberry pie. Pair your desert with your favorite wine, cocktail, or tea/espresso for a wonderful cap to your day.

MEET THE EXPERT:  Jenny Galasso - Portlander

Jenny is a blogger and local to Portland, Maine.  She is an expert on Maine adventures, restaurants, and hidden gems.  View other posts that feature Jenny by clicking keyword "Jenny" on the side bar.  

Urban Hiking - Forest City Trail in Portland, Maine

Forest Trail, Portland, Maine. 
Photo courtesy of Jenny Galasso

 

This time of year is hard for me.  The weather is unpredictable, the trees depressingly bare, and trails covered in wet, slick leaves.  I often curl up at home on the weekends instead of burning gas to go to the mountains.  The wait begins for the day that snow covers my favorite paths, and I can take joy in hiking again.  Fortunately, my friend Jenny got me out of this funk and out into nature despite my reluctance for late fall hiking.  This time, instead of heading to the hills, we went to the city and took a walk along one of the hikes in the "Portland Trails" network.  This little hike revitalized my affair with nature and was a great reminder that November is a great time to be outdoors. 

Here is how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Forest City Trail in Portland, Maine

Trailhead
Photo courtesy of Jenny Galasso

Getting there:  We accessed the trail from Summit Street in Portland's North Derring neighborhood.  There is a large trailhead sign (see photo) and street parking available.

Trail: The trail immediately drops into a hardwood forest.  When you get to the power-line swath, continue straight.  After the power-lines, you will come to a seasonal stream.  Continue along the path and it will wind along the stream bank.  This will take you to the Presumpscot River.  At the river junction, turn right and continue along the bank, enjoying views of rapids and flowing water.  The trail ends at a lookout of the Presumpscot Falls. 

Difficulty:  The trail is easy and mostly flat with a few up/downhill parts towards the river.  Fallen, wet leaves made the trail slick at parts.

Presumpscot Falls, Portland, Maine
Photo courtesy of Jenny Galasso

Distance: Approximately 1 mile one-way (2 miles round trip).

Recommendations:  This is a great little urban trail to see waterfalls, woods, and still be in the city.  It is a dog friendly trail.  Be prepared to see a lot of fellow hikers with their pups.  It's a great choice for children and families due to the easy terrain. 






Jenny and I enjoyed our stroll through the woods on this brisk fall day.  I recommend taking a hike when the shorter days and cold weather is getting you down. 

Friends enjoy a fall urban stroll

Please leave comments and questions below.

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Portland, Oregon - Biking, Beer, and Baristas

Downtown Portland, Oregon Sign

This week, I have returned to my hometown as a tourist...visiting my family and showing Matt (a New England native) a taste of Oregon.   Our first full day in the great state was spent in the city of Portland. Portland is a unique and thriving city - I was eager to show Matt the place that I called home for so long.  Our tour guides were my sister, Kelly, and her boyfriend, Chris.  They did a great job of showing us a glimpse of Portland that included traveling by bicycle, trying local beers, and trying coffees and foods in the city.   In one day, we got an excellent taste of this funky and passionate town.

 Here is how to recreate this adventure...

Biking:

Kelly and Matt lock up our bikes at our first stop.

Portland, Oregon has an AMAZING bike culture.  It is celebrated, supported, and possibly expected that you are a bicycle enthusiast.  As a result, there are excellent bike lanes, bike "boulevards", special stop light signals, and bike parking all over the city.

Matt, Kelly, Chris, and I left their house in the "Cully Neighborhood" and cycled via a bike boulevard (a through-way street that are heavily trafficked by bikes and has a slower speed limit) to Northeast Alberta Street.

In this area, we visited the Community Cycling Center - a nonprofit that provides bike programs, workshops, camps, and a full service bike shop for the community. Our biking continued throughout the day making it to Voodoo Donuts, the Portland Waterfront, the Pearl District and back to Cully.  It was refreshing to tour a city without the constant fights in traffic, search for parking, and navigating busy streets.  By bike, we were able to slow down, take our time, and wander - how true travel should be.  See the google map at the bottom of this post to trace our +17 miles around the city.

Community Cycling Center Non Profit and Bike Shop

Beer:

Upright Tasting Room

Craft beer and microbrews take on a new meaning in Oregon.  Everywhere you look there are new beers being designed and shared.  We only got a chance to visit two of the +30 breweries in the town.  The first brewery stop was the Upright Brewery.  Upright is a small operation.  A friend had told us about it- saying we would have to go into a cafe, take the elevator to the basement, and at the end of a hall is the brewery/tasting room.  He was right.  This small, one room brewery had a number of beers to try.  I enjoyed "four" - their wheat beer.

Rogue Ale 

We also enjoyed our time at the large (and well known) Rogue Brewery.  Their substantial restaurant in the Pearl District was crowded and bustling.  Kelly, Matt, and I tried some awesome beers and also enjoyed their food.  Oregon Craft Beer Month was conveniently underway which gave us some discounts and new brews to try.

During the day, we had a few other food and drink stops including The Bye and Bye - a vegan restaurant (very Portland) that had a great beer selection on tap.  If you love craft beer and breweries, Portland, Oregon is a must see travel destination.

Vegan Kraut Dog at The Bye and Bye Restaurant 

Barista:

Portlanders LOVE coffee.  For many, it's more than a morning wake-me-up - it is a hobby.  In the same way Portlanders take their beer seriously, you can find many coffee shops with knowledgeable baristas who are well versed in the subtle flavors, history, and fine art in a good cup of Joe.  Kelly took us to the shop "Barista" in Northeast Portland.

Coffee is King

The Barista website claims they serve "Exceptional coffees from the world's finest roasters, prepared by the most skilled baristas in Portland, Oregon."  That said, we had to try a cup.  Before entering, Kelly advised, "Ask open ended questions about their coffee.  They know a lot about it and love to share."  She entered and asked the hipster-looking barista what he could tell her about that day's house blend.  The gentleman was extremely knowledgeable about his product and truth be told - it was an awesome cup of coffee.

Voodoo Doughnut

What goes best with coffee?  Doughnuts of course!  After coffee, we biked over to the Voodoo Too doughnut shop where you can get strange donuts such as: "Bacon Maple Bar", "Cock and Balls", or a "Fruit Loop" Doughnut.  I stuck with the store's traditional "Voodoo Doughnut" which was delicious and humorously filled with red jelly.

Our guide, Kelly, takes us over the
Broadway Bridge by bike,

Our day of biking around with Chris and Kelly allowed us to experience life as a Portlander for the day.  Even though I spent my childhood just outside the city, I got to experience new (and more adult) adventures in the City of Roses.  I recommend a trip to Portland - especially if you like Beer, Bikes, and Baristas.

What you might realize is - whether it's bikes, beer, or coffee - Portlanders are a group of passionate, knowledgeable people.  They take something - like bike commuting, a morning beverage, or a afternoon bar tab - and turn it into a work of art.  THAT is one reason why Portland is so special.

Map of our Route - Courtesy of Google Maps

Please leave comments and questions below.

Maine Boatbuilders Show

Maine Boatbuilders Show

Matt and I decided to play the role of wealthy boat buyers for the day and attended the Maine Boatbuilders Show in Portland, Maine on Saturday, March 16.  The show cost $15 for admission and displayed endless rooms of vendors and boats from local craftsmen.

I'm on a boat

I really enjoyed the chance to walk on the giant yachts and luxury boats.  I figure it's probably one of the only times I'll have that opportunity.

I was disappointed not to see handcrafted kayaks in the mix.  As an avid flat water paddler, I'd love a chance to talk to local kayak and canoe makers.  Still, it was great experience and I enjoyed learning about the local talent in boatbuilding.


After our sail aboard the boatbuilders show, Matt and I headed over to Duckfat Restaurant for lunch.  This is the third time we visited this popular local eatery.  Duckfat has a menu of panini, fries, and salads - most featuring gourmet ingredients.  Their belgium style frites are fried in duck fat and served in the traditional paper cone.

Poutine at Duckfat

Matt and I especially love their poutine - a French Canadian dish of fries, gravy, cheese curds - and at Duckfat, toped with a fried duck egg.  We also enjoyed a panini of pork belly and slaw.  It was all delicious. 

Duckfat also serves canned and bottled beers.

Aword of warning...Duckfat is a popular eatery and even groups of two should plan a 15-45 min wait on a weekend.

The boat show and Duckfat lunch was a great way to spend a cold day in Maine.  Perhaps we will make it a yearly date!

Southern Coast on Dwellable

Planning Guide for a Maine (and NH) Vacation

Covered Bridges found all over New England

I got an email from a friend of my mom's who is thinking of spending two weeks in Maine this upcoming summer.  She had a list of questions and after answering them, I thought I'd repost them for others to peruse.  Please leave comments if you have other suggestions!

1.  Where are the best hikes?

Jordan Pond, Acadia National Park

It depends on your hiking ability and how far you want to drive.  In Maine, you'll have two main choices for hiking... either Coastal hiking or Mountains. If you are really into hiking, I'd say Acadia National Park or White Mountain National Forest in Northern New Hampshire (2 hours from Portland) are the places to go.  

Here are my recommendations for specific hikes:

Southern Coastal Maine

- Marginal Way, Ogunquit - Beach/Coastal Walk in Ogunquit, Maine (Easy)

Mid-Coast, Maine

- Bald Mountain or Mt. Battie, Camden - Small Mountain near quaint town of Camden (Easy-Moderate)

- Acadia National Park - Fav hikes are Gorham Mountain (Moderate - Challenging), Bubble Rock (Moderate), Jordan Pond (Easy), Acadia Mountain (Moderate - Challenging)

Cog Railroad can take you to the top of Mt. Washington

White Mountains, NH

- Mt. Willard (Easy - Moderate) access from Highland Center, Crawford Notch - 3 hrs

- South Moat Mountain - (Moderate - Difficult) - all day hike  accessed from the Kancamangus Hwy

- Mt. Chocura - (Moderate - Difficult) - all day hike access from the Kancamangus Highway

- Mt. Pierce - (Moderate - Difficult) - all day hike access from Highland Center, Rt 302

- Mt. Washington (Very Difficult) - all day access from AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center

- Mt. Lafayette/Mt. Lincoln (Very Difficult) - all day

2.  Where are the most quaint charming villages?

Many of the coastal Maine towns are very quaint and charming...Here are my recommendations...

Southern Maine:

- Ogunquit, Maine - Beaches, shopping, restaurants.  It is very touristy but fun and beautiful.

Bar Harbor, Maine

- Kennebunkport, Maine - This is where I live.  It is very charming and has great beaches, shopping and dining.

- Portland, Maine - Charming small city.  Excellent night life and unique dining.  Check out Portland Head Light in nearby Cape Elizabeth.

Mid Coast Maine:

- Camden, Maine - Small and regal fishing town.  Tourist friendly.

- Boothbay Harbor, Maine - Small Fishing town.  Cute shops, and places to eat.

- Bar Harbor - town near Acadia National Park.  Artistic, shopping, and nature

3.  Where should we stay (maybe 3 different places)?

If I were you and I had 2 weeks I'd do something like this...

Kennebunkport, Maine

- Southen Maine 3-4 nights (see Kennebunkport, Ogunquit, Portland)

- Small Fishing town Camden or Boothbay Harbor - 1 night

- Acadia/Bar Harbor 2-3 nights

- White Mountain National Forest - Stay in North Conway area for 3-4 nights

- Return to Portland/Boston or whereever you are flying out of.

4.  Are there any inn to inn hikes available?

- There are well established "hut to hut" hiking systems.  These don't provide private rooms but in the summer would provide a hearty dinner and breakfast and bathrooms/ shared bunkroom.  The one I'm familiar with is run by the AMC and can be found out about at www.outdoors.org.  There is also a hut system called Maine Huts and Trails but I've never used them.  You should know that the hiking is generally moderate-very difficult.

5.  Which part of the coast is the prettiest and most interesting?

- Southern Coast has sandy beaches and is more tourist friendly with a wide variety of restaurants, accommodations, and things to do.  

- Mid Coast is more rocky/rugged and a fisherman's land (less tourism).  I think one of the small towns like Camden or Boothbay Harbor would be a charming one night stop.

Boats in Kennebunkport, Maine 

- Acadia is gorgeous because it has mountains up against the ocean which provides many places for beautiful views.  Plus, Bar Harbor has a thriving scene for tourist looking for good food and shopping.  

6.  Any ferries to take us to Nova Scotia or outer islands?

- Nope.  Last year they ended ferry service to Nova Scotia.  

- If you want a short ferry trip - try the 20 min ferry from Portland to Peaks Island.  Check out my blog entry here for info on what do do on the island:  HERE.

7.  Any other tidbits you’d like to share?

Lobster Roll 

- Bring Bug Spray

- Use a map and bring appropriate gear if hiking in the White Mountains.

- Use Trip Advisor Forums for quick questions.  There are some really knowledgeable people on there who love to answer questions.

- See the Portland Head Lighthouse in Portland, Try a Lobster Roll, Whoopie Pie, and Maine Maple Syrup, and get into nature.

Southern Coast on Dwellable

A Brisk Lighthouse Walk

Portland Head Light, Cape Elizabeth, Maine

If you want to experience gorgeous views of ocean and lighthouses, try visiting Portland Head Light at Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth, ME.

This is a must see for any visitor to Southern Maine, but it also is a great place for locals to frequent.  No matter how many times I visit this spot, I'm speechless by the beauty of the crashing waves, rugged coast, and regal lighthouse.

Matt and I visited the park this weekend.  If visiting in the fall and winter, make sure to bundle up as the winds make it a cold spot.

Here's how I enjoy my time at Ft. William's Park...

Rocky Beaches

Fort William's Park and Portland Head Light

Trail: Easy, Family Friendly, Dog Friendly, Picnic

Directions: Cross the bridge (77) from Portland into South Portland.  Once there, follow signs to the Portland Head Light on Shore Road.  Map provided at portlandheadlight.com 

Parking: Once in the park, I follow the driveway in, and then take a right to the far gravel parking lot.  All parking in the park is free for visitors.  If you take a left, you can park in the smaller lot by the beach/playground.

Ram Island Ledge Light

Walk: Walk to the Portland Head Light, then take the trail North along the coastline.  Stop to enjoy views of the lighthouses.  You can also see views of Ram Island Ledge Light off the coast.  Continue down to the beach/playground area. Here you have a choice to go up to the right to see the abandoned fort or to the left where you can see the old Goddard mansion.  I enjoy walking back along the road and crossing up to the gazebo and covered picnic area.  There are some great interpretive signs here with information about the area.  The park is over 90 acres, so you can choose your own  challenge.  All trails are easy, graded, and gravel.  My little loop is probably about 1.5 miles.

Trail at Fort Williams Park

Other Activities:  The park offers great picnic facilities, many large fields for soccer or frisbee, and high winds which is excellent for kite flying.



This park is a New England treasure and a must see for anyone visiting Maine.  As a local Mainer, I never get sick of visiting this precious spot.

Feel free to comment and share what you enjoy about Ft. Williams Park

Goddard Mansion

Southern Coast on Dwellable

Peaks Island Day Trip

Double lighthouses viewed from 20 min ferry ride to Peaks island.

I lived in Southern Maine for 5 years before I ever took the trip out to Peaks Island.  I missed out.  It is the perfect outing for those looking for a change of scenery, casual seaside stroll, or bike ride.  This is a great idea for a fall outing since the crowds have cleared and you can expect a quiet, quaint island.

Ferry comes into Peaks Terminal

Follow this recipe for a perfect afternoon on Peaks....

10:10 am - Arrive in Portland.  Park and walk to the Ferry terminal.
10:25 am - Purchase ferry ticket.
10:40 am - Board Ferry to Peaks.
10:45 am - Ferry departs Portland.
11:05 am - Arrive at Peaks. De-board.
11:15 am - Walk up road and turn right on Island Ave.  Go to  The Peaks Island House for and early lunch and drink on the deck overlooking Casco Bay. 
12:15 pm - Exit the restaurant walk the island... This is a 4 mile stroll.

• Continue walking down Island Ave, 
• Turn left on New Island Ave
• Right on Whitehead St. - You'll pass the 5th Maine Regiment Museum on your right.
• Right on Seashore Ave which will take you down to the shore.  
• Continue walking on Seashore Ave. You'll pass views of beach, quaint island homes, and rocky shore.
• You will continue on Seashore Ave as it winds back into the inland island.  Continue past Pleasant Ave and wind down to Island Ave.
• Stay on Island Ave until you return to the main part of town.  
• Return to Ferry terminal.  

  

  Stroll along Seashore Ave

2:30 pm - Finish walk and grab a coffee at Peaks Cafe near the ferry terminal.
2:40 pm - Board ferry back to Portland.
2:45 pm - Depart back to Portland.


Bike Option:

- Rent a bike at Brad's Island Bicycles.  Bring cash.  This is an honor system in the off season and comes with a island map.  Once off the ferry, you can get to Brad's by walking up the road and taking a left on Island Ave.  Brad's will be about a 10 min walk on the right.  Address: 115 Island Ave., Peaks Island, ME.  Phone: (207) 766-5631

More advice for Peaks...

Map by google maps

- Check out the ferry schedule at http://www.cascobaylines.com/.  It usually departs Portland once an hour with some exceptions.

- The ferry is very affordable.  It is currently $7.70 round trip ($4.10 off season) with $6.50 extra if you are bringing a bicycle on.   Show up to ferry a 20 minutes prior to departure to get your ticket and get to your gate.

- There is a parking garage at the ferry terminal, but passengers shouldn't expect this to have open spots during the high season of summer.  Other options are street parking or other City of Portland garages which can be found on the Casco Bay Lines website under parking (here).  

- The ferry ride to Peaks takes 20 minutes one way and you will likely see lighthouses, islands, and lobster/fisherman hauling their catch. 

- Once on the island, you'll discover that the businesses are almost all near the ferry terminal.

Biking is another option

Southern Coast on Dwellable