Wednesday, March 18, 2026

A Family Weekend in Montreal (With an Unforgettable Sugar Shack Experience)

There’s something special about introducing your kids to a place that already holds meaning for you. This March, we took our first international trip as a family - a weekend in Montreal, Canada - with one main goal: visiting an authentic Quebec maple sugar shack.

Plan a Montreal family getaway with kids -
Old Montreal, Jean-Talon Market, Biodome,
and a memorable maple sugar shack experience.

For my husband Matt and me, this wasn’t new. We’ve visited Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack four times (see last years post here) . But this time felt entirely different because we were seeing it through our kids’ eyes.

Here's a breakdown of our family-friendly maple sugaring weekend in Montreal, Quebec:

Friday: Arrival + Old Montreal Charm

We arrived Friday and checked into Hotel Bonaparte in Old Montreal. I chose it for its charm and unbeatable location, and it delivered immediately.

At check in, we were given sparkling cider

We loved the charm of Hotel Bonaparte and Old Montreal

Cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and that distinctly European feel - Old Montreal is one of those places that makes you slow down.

Our first stop was Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal. There’s an admission fee, but it’s absolutely worth it. Walking into that soaring Gothic interior felt like stepping into another world. It was the perfect warm-up after being outside, and the kids had never experienced anything like it.

Back at the hotel, we were greeted with sparkling apple cider - a small but memorable touch.

Our hotel was next to this landmark

The kids were in awe of the basilica - and so was I!

Dinner at a Montreal Institution

That night, we headed to Au Pied de Cochon, the flagship restaurant behind the sugar shack. An Uber picked us up within a minute right outside the hotel - so easy.

This is not a restaurant for everyone (vegetarians beware) but if you’re open to rich, indulgent, unapologetically Quebecois cuisine, it’s unforgettable. Chef Martin Picard is a genius in this space.

Highlights for the kids:

  • Foie gras poutine (yes, really!)

  • Maple cake for dessert

We also ordered the stuffed pig’s foot—because when in Montreal…Matt and I have now been here three times, and it continues to impress.

Simple but indulgent menu - get reservations!

Classic Montreal Poutine



Saturday: Bagels, Markets + The Main Event

We woke up to fresh scones and juice left outside our door. Overnight snow had transformed the city, and our view of the basilica looked like a winter postcard.

A Classic Montreal Morning

First stop: St-Viateur Bagel.

Widely considered some of the best bagels in Canada, they’re smaller, denser, and slightly sweet thanks to honey water. We arrived around 9 a.m. and walked right in. (Bring cash! They take USA currency too.)

  • Kids: toasted bagels with cream cheese

  • Us: bagel sandwiches

This was our second time to St. Viateur Bagels

Next, we wandered through Jean-Talon Market - a favorite of ours in any season. Even in winter, it’s lively and full of local flavor.

The large market is a great place to grab a cappuccino and walk around

The Sugar Shack Experience

Then it was time for the highlight of the trip: our noon reservation at the sugar shack in Mirabel.

This visit felt extra special - we had a private room with 10 of us, sharing the experience with family and friends.

If you’ve never been to a Quebec sugar shack, expect:

  • Course after course of rich, maple-forward dishes

  • A celebratory, communal atmosphere

  • A meal that feels like an event, not just lunch

Favorites at the table:

  • Pea soup

  • Pork pie

  • Maple honey ham

Every course brought “oohs” and “aahs.” It’s indulgent, it’s over-the-top, and a three hour event that is completely worth it. See my last years post for specifics on how to book and prepare.

5 courses of rich food!

We brought a lot of the leftover ham home


Afternoon + Evening: Old Montreal & The Ferris Wheel

Back in Old Montreal, we spent the afternoon souvenir shopping before heading to the waterfront to ride La Grande Roue de Montréal.

I could only convince my son to join me, but it ended up being such a fun experience.

Inside the heated gondola:

  • Panoramic views of the snow-covered city

  • A 20-minute ride (3 - 4 rotations)

  • Bluetooth connection so you can play your own music

It’s touristy—but in the best way.

We finished the day wandering the streets again before settling in for the night.

The largest Ferris wheel in Canada!

Rue Saint-Paul in Old Montreal


Sunday: Biodome + The Road Home

Our final morning started with fresh croissants waiting at the hotel - another detail that made the stay feel special.

After checking out, we headed to Montreal Olympic Park to visit the Montreal Biodome.

This ended up being a huge hit with the kids.

The Biodome lets you walk through different ecosystems of the Americas, with real animals in each environment:

  • Capybaras

  • Sloths

  • Tropical birds

  • Penguins

It’s immersive, educational, and a perfect family-friendly stop.

From there, we packed up and made the five-hour drive back to Seacoast New Hampshire.

The architecture was so cool!

The rainforest exhibit was my favorite!

Taking photos of capybaras


Final Thoughts: Is Montreal Worth It with Kids?

Absolutely.

Montreal strikes a rare balance:

  • European charm without the long-haul flight

  • Incredible food (for adventurous and picky eaters alike)

  • Cultural experiences that feel exciting - not overwhelming - for kids

And if you’re looking for something truly unique?

A traditional Quebec sugar shack - especially Au Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack - is an experience your family won’t forget.

Desserts were a hit!

For similar adventurers, check out the links below - and follow me on instagram!

- A Pilgrimage to A Sugar Shack

- Florida 3 Night Vacation with Kids




Saturday, February 28, 2026

Glamping with Gray Whales: Baja Expeditions in San Ignacio Lagoon


My 74-year-old mom, generously treated me to this once-in-a-lifetime adventure with Baja Expeditions in San Ignacio Lagoon to get close encounters with the gray whales that go there to winter, breed, and calf.  As a self-identified “whale-hugger”, former whale naturalist and marine biologist - this experience had been on my bucket-list for a long time.  This was more than a vacation, more than an adventure…for me - it was a religious experience and the ultimate privilege.

Here’s the breakdown of my experience:

Getting to Baja: Cabo San Lucas

We flew into Cabo San Lucas on February 22 and intentionally arrived a day early. Baja weather and small plane schedules can shift with wind, and coming from the east coast, I didn’t want travel delays to impact my ability to get to remote San Ignacio. Arriving early also allowed us to take advantage of the included Cabo activities offered through the program.

My mom arranged a private car transfer, about 45 minutes, into town. We stayed at Los Milagros Hotel, just two blocks from SeeCreatures, which is the meeting location for the San Ignacio excursion.

Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Cabo Day 1

We walked down to the marina and had Mexican food at a restaurant set up under a tent right on the water. Pelicans dove dramatically for fish while boats rocked in the harbor. It felt good to trade New Hampshire winter for sun and salt air.

Cabo Day 2

We had brunch at Casasola Cafe and Brunch and wandered again along the marina and beach. In the afternoon we took advantage of the offered photography class with SeeCreatures - run by Australian Ryan Sault and gave us good tips for getting video and photos on our excursion.  Next, we took advantage of the included humpback whale watch in Cabo with SeeCreatures.  We saw a mama and calf, multiple breaches, and the iconic El Arco glowing at sunset.

Dinner was casual and delicious at Tacos Guss on the same block as our hotel. It is cash only, though U.S. dollars are accepted. They bring out an enormous tray of salsas and fillings so you can build your own tacos.

Amazing humpack whale watch in Cabo San Lucas

Sunset in Cabo San Lucas


The Flight North to San Ignacio Lagoon

The next morning we checked out early and arrived at SeeCreatures at 6:15 a.m. A continental breakfast was waiting, and from there we were transported to the private aviation side of the Cabo airport.

We boarded a 14-person Cessna and flew two hours north over desert coastline and salt flats until we reached San Ignacio Lagoon dirt airstrip.  It really felt like a remote adventure!  On arrival, the camp staff was waiting with champagne and SUVs to drive us and our luggage to camp.

Our plane to San Ignacio Lagoon

Amazing views on the way to San Ignacio Lagoon


Camp Life with Baja Expeditions

The Baja Expeditions camp is a temporary eco camp built for the four month whale season. There are three levels of tents. We stayed in the highest tier called Luxury.  Our tent included: real beds with linens, carpteted floors, small living room, and a built in bathroom with a camper-style toilet, sink, and shower.

The camp was separated into three groups based on your level of luxury and about 20-25 guest in each section with their own staff.  For our group we had a beautify dining tent, bar tent, and the whole camp shared a “dive bar” built out of an old school bus.   It felt remote but comfortable. You are absolutely off the grid, yet thoughtfully cared for.

Our Luxury Glamping Tent

Dining tent


The Daily Rhythm

Each day followed a steady structure:

  • Made-to-order breakfast

  • Two 90-minute morning whale watches

  • Lunch back at camp

  • One 90-minute afternoon whale watch

  • Cocktail hour and snacks

  • Dinner

  • Evening naturalist program

Daily Schedule

The guides are professional marine biologists. The whale watch boats are 10-person dory-style boats captained by local fishermen.  Some guests skipped certain outings to relax, book a massage, or sleep in.

The larger group was divided in to boats with up to 9 guests in each.

Close encounters were common, but touching was not.
 Although everyone in our 24 person group touched once!

I chose to skip one afternoon whale watch to visit the local village and participate in sea turtle tagging with Eco Tortugas. It was a meaningful look at conservation work happening in the community.

Releasing a young green sea turtle
after measuring and tagging her.
Measuring the turtle with Eco Tortugas


A Protected Whale Sanctuary

San Ignacio Lagoon is part of El VizcaĂ­no Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Whale watching here is tightly regulated and highly limited:

  • A set number of boats allowed in the observation zone

  • Daily patrols by enforcement officers

  • No feeding or chasing whales

  • Boats immediately back off during mating behaviors

Some whales were friendlier than others.

I got to "pet" a gray whale on my first whale watch.
On the rest of the days, I stepped back so others got a turn
.


We saw the sherrif patrol boat every single day. The respect for the animals is not performative. It is enforced.

The gray whales approach on their own terms. The interaction happens because they choose it.  

Every whale watch was special.  Some days whales approached our boats (all 24 people in our group got to touch a whale once on the trip). One day we got to observe (from a respectful distance) males doing their mating ritual **including a rare sighting of the male gentialia - called the “pink floyd”, a mama and calf swim by, and lots of spy hopping and a few breaching behaviors.  My favorites were when the whales swam close to the boat - the spray of their breath hitting you, hearing the breath, and watching their shadows go under the boat.  And of course my absolute favorite part was touching it.



The Cost

This is not an inexpensive trip. The 4 day, 3 night Baja Expeditions experience ranges from $2,600 to $3,100 per person depending on tent level.

This price includes: the small plane flight from Cabo, all meals at camp, all whale watches, and the naturalist programming.

Not included in the expedition cost was gratuities (approximately $300), alcohol ($5 to $10 per drink), massages, Turtle tagging experience ($40 cash), Cabo hotel nights, and our flights in and out of Cabo.

My mom treated me to this experience because it was outside my personal travel budget and she wanted us to share something meaningful together. I am deeply aware of the privilege of that gift.

Amazing star viewing from camp at night!

I enjoyed cocktail hour at the "dive bar"
 after our afternoon whale watches.

The staff took your meal orders the day before
so it was ready for when you came to dinner. 
The food and service were superior.


Packing Tips

You are limited to a 22-pound soft-sided suitcase due to the small plane, so pack strategically.I brought: wind/hiking pants, sun shirts, warm layers for cool mornings, a lightweight puffer, and sneakers. Weather ranged from 90 F early afternoon to 40 F at night. Desert climate!

The sun is super intense at the lagoon. I highly recommend bringing: neck gaiter/buff, wide-brim hat, polarized sunglasses to cut the glare and see the whales.

Even though its warm, everyone covers up from the sun. 
Highly recommend a neck gaiter/buff.  They provide the white boots.

Baja Expeditions provide waterproof boots, windbreakers, and sunscreen, although I preferred using my own wind layer.

Most guests simply brought phones for photography.  I bought a go pro for the trip and was able to get some underwater video/photos when the whale was close to the boat.

I was able to get some underwater shots
close to the boat with my new go pro.


Final Thoughts

If wildlife and conservation-centered travel matter to you, San Ignacio Lagoon deserves a place on your radar. This was the trip of a lifetime.

It is not just a trip. It is an encounter.


You might also enjoy these similar adventures:

- A week in Costa Rica on the Papagayo Coast

- The Ultimate Iceland Road Trip

- Florida Keys - National Parks and Wildlife

And don't forget to follow me on Instagram for more tips and travel inspo!!