Olympic National Park Beaches

2nd Beach, La Push.  Photo by Bruce Hansen (c) Mt. Hood Press

There are many reasons to visit Olympic National Park in summer - hike stunning ridgelines of tall, glacier

2nd Beach, Olympic National Park

capped mountains, explore wildlife-rich riperian zones of blue, glacial water, and walk among giant trees, dripping with ancient-looking moss.

Still...the number one reason I wanted to visit Olympic National Park was to walk the coastline, explore life-filled tide pools, and gaze at enormous rock monoliths in the pristine beaches of northern Washington State.

In my short, four day stay, I was able to visit three beautiful beaches.  Details about our itinerary are available on the Four Family Friendly Days in Olympic National Park.  Since my favorite part of the stay was the beaches (as well as the reason I came), I decided it was appropriate to do an additional post of these magnificent spaces.    Below is advice, descriptions, and directions to three of the most spiritual beaches of the region.

Ruby Beach on a cool, foggy morning

Advice:

1.  It's Cold - Don't expect Santa Monica sunbathing.  Even in August, these beaches are cool, cloudy, and have freezing water.  It's part of what makes them unique and home to abundant wildlife.  Enjoy the beach as a place to walk, explore, and photograph, but leave your beach towel and bikini at home.

2.  Check the Tide - Check a local tide chart.  It's best to explore the coast at low tide when you can poke around the pools and walk more of the beach.  

3.  Go Early to Avoid Crowds - None of these beaches will reach SoCal type crowding, but after noon, expect to see families and tourists exploring the beach. For a pristine, empty beach, get there early...or better yet, camp out on the beach!

My adventures - Three Olympic National Park Beaches and how to get there...

2nd Beach - La Push, WA

It's unfortunate this gorgeous shoreline has the un-romantic name of "2nd Beach".  It doesn't do it justice.

Little Girl finds Sea Star home

While 1st beach can get crowded due to it's easy street access, and 3rd beach is the the first crowded parking lot from La Push Road, 2nd Beach is tucked away between it's sisters.  It's the perfect escape.  After a short, wooded hike through giant, ancient trees, I emerged onto a open (and empty) one-mile stretch of beach.  Sea stacks and small rock islands pierced through a sea of fog, and as I walked, the wave of cloud would move, revealing and hiding new rock monoliths.  This was a great spot to explore tide pools.  I was relieved to see groups of healthy sea stars - not yet struck by starfish wasting disease.  It was exactly why I had wanted to visit this park.  It felt magical. 

Get there:  We drove 2 miles north on Rt. 101 to Rt. 110.  Turn left (West) on Rt. 110.  This will turn into La Push Road.  Travel about 13 miles on 110/La Push road.  You will pass the parking lot for 3rd Beach and the Quileute Tribal Office before coming to the parking lot for 2nd Beach.  

2nd Beach, La Push

2nd Beach, La Push

On the jetty at First Beach

1st Beach - La Push, WA

This is one of the easiest beaches to access in the park - No Hiking Required.  This beach sports a long jetty covered in large and battered driftwood.  I climbed on the largest piece of driftwood I've ever seen - a uprooted and weathered tree that had a root system still standing at least 25 feet high!  Rocky islands and needles rise offshore and create a unique coastal landscape.  I visited this beach to watch the sunset and even though it was foggy, it was amazing to watch colored sky peek through the cracks in the clouds.  

Get there:  We drove 2 miles north on Rt. 101 to Rt. 110.  Turn left (West) on Rt. 110.  This will turn into La Push Road.  Take 110/La Push Road to the end and you will enter the town of La Push.  Follow signs to 1st beach parking.

Ruby Beach - Olympic National Park

We were fortunate to reach Ruby Beach at low tide where I could get a hands-on experience with

Rock Needles at Ruby Beach

the many tide pools.  Large green anemones carpeted the rocks, rough blue mussels clung to the stone, and hand-sized orange and purple sea stars cooled in the pools.  We enjoyed the morning fog and many rock needles rising out of the sand while we wandered.  Our 9 am walk left us one of the only people enjoying this heavenly piece of nature.  It was the perfect way to end our trip in the park.

Get there:  From Forks, take Rt 101 south 27 miles to Ruby Beach parking area (there is a sign on the right).  Walk a quarter mile trail to the beach below.  

Although I loved every part of the park we explored, the beaches were my favorite.  The rock islets, foggy days, and enormous tide pool organisms create a place of wonder and peace.  It calms my soul and makes me yearn to return.  

Sea Stars in Olympic National Park

Ruby Beach

You might also enjoy...

Four Family Friendly Days at Olympic National Park

A Day at Cannon Beach, Oregon

Oregon Coast Day Trip

Please leave comments and questions below...

Hiking Mount Tom in the White Mountains

Last year it was 90˚F here on my spring break.  
One year later, and it is snowing.  
I decided to make the most of it.

Immersed in snow and fog at the summit of Mt. Tom.

The falling snow and hard packed trail created an almost surreal adventure when Matt and I took a hike up Mt. Tom in Crawford Notch, New Hampshire on a mid-April day.

Even in mid-April, the trail is hard packed snow.

Even though I spent years working out of Appalachian Mountain Club's Highland Center in Crawford Notch, I had never hiked up the 2.8 miles from the front door to the summit of 4,051 ft, Mt. Tom.

Matt and I left the Highland Center parking lot at 10 am and were back down by 1 pm.  The hike was entirely on packed snow and I was glad I had microspikes and trekking poles.  Matt did it without the boot traction, but it was more challenging (and exhausting).   The trail wound through mainly hardwood forest and over a couple of tranquil streams.  Even in snow, the trek was challenging due to the constant uphill grade.  At the summit, we were immersed in a cloud, so we weren't able to see the view.   Instead, we experience the eery calm of silent snow falling on a windless summit as we gazed into the frozen fog.

It was a unique experience, being immersed in winter so late in the year, and I was glad to get in my first hike of spring.

Here are more details for those adventurers looking for a similar experience....

Snowy conditions on Mt. Tom

Adventure:  Mount Tom Hike in Crawford Notch State Park, White Mountains, NH.

Getting there:  From North Conway take 302 Northwest into Crawford Notch State Park.  Park at the AMC Highland Center or at the Crawford Train Depot.  The trailhead is just on the other side of the tracks from the depot.  You should see an opening in the trees.

Trail:  Take the Avalon Trail up 1.2 miles to the A-Z trail junction.  Then take the A-Z trail 1 more mile and you will come to the Mt. Tom spur.  The spur takes you 0.6 (or 0.5 depending on your map/sign) to the summit of Mt. Tom.
To follow our path, take the trails back the way you came.

Difficulty:  Moderately Difficult to Difficult.  Like any 4,000 footer in the White Mountains, your experience will entirely depend on weather, trail conditions, and skill level.  With packed snow and boot traction, this trail was a nice smooth packed trail and a moderately difficult hike.  I'm not sure (yet) the challenge level it is without snow, and I know it would be infinitely more difficult had there been ice on the trail.  Be smart, plan ahead and be prepared for all kinds of conditions.

Distance:  2.8 one way.  5.6 round trip.  It should take 3-5 hours.

Take the Avalon Trail to A-Z Trail to Mount Tom Spur

Recommendations:  I always recommending carrying multiple warm (non-cotton) layered clothing, waterproof hiking boots, a first aid kit, food, water, an AMC White Mountain trail map (Crawford Notch Range one), and in this case propper traction for shoes (MicroSpikes or Yak Tracks).

I also recommed parking at the AMC Highland Center.  You can use their bathrooms, buy a snack in the gift shop, and ask advice from the their adventure guides.


It was another wonderful adventure up in the Whites.  We ended our day with a cold beer and a warm meal at the wonderful Moat Mountain Brewpub in North Conway.

Please contact me or leave a comment if you have questions, comments, or concerns.

Blizzard Nemo - How I survived the storm

Car buried in snow from Nemo.

How I survived the Blizzard Nemo:

My yard and my landlord's notorious signs.

1.  Warm Home - I will pay for that later (literally)
2.  Lots of food - Plenty of food in my house due to the party I had to cancel.  We ate and drank well!
3.  Company - Cats, Dog, and Matt
4.  Something to do...
 - Tried a new recipe
 - Taught Matt a new card game
 - Played Cribbage
 - Facebook and internet distractions
5.  Patience - With yourself and your storm companions.  Careful of cabin fever.
           

Buried by a snow bank

Matt walks Nadia through the snow.

Kennebunkport.  Allison's Restuaran

Skiing the Sherbie

Combine a love of hiking and skiing into a perfect afternoon in the Whites.

Hiking up the Tuckerman's Ravine Trail to Hermit Lake Shelter

        Last weekend I had my first non-park alpine skiing adventure.  This was a great activity for me because it combined winter hiking (which I love), skiing (which I love), and not spending any money on a lift ticket (which I love!)

        Matt and I drove up to AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center/Joe Dodge Lodge in the White Mountains, NH. We arrived around noon and planned to hike to Hermit Lake Shelter then ski the 2 mile John Sherburne Ski Trail (nicknamed the "Sherbie") back to the Lodge parking lot.
While loading up our pack in the parking lot, we ran into friend Tyler who had just finished the run.      He warned that the Sherbie was icy and rated it a "black diamond" that day.  Ready for another run, he decided to gear up and go for a second trek.
        The hike up the wide Tuckerman's Ravine trail in packed snow was highly enjoyable, and although I was nervous for my first "backcountry" skiing, I really enjoyed the winding Sherbie ski trail.  I'd love to try it again on a powder day!

Below is more information you need to recreate this adventure...

Drive:  2.5 hour drive from Kennebunk, ME to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center/Joe Dodge Lodge on Rt. 16, NH.

Trail Up: Hike up Tuckerman's Ravine Trail.

Winter View from Hermit Lake Shelter

Distance: 2.4 miles from Pinkham Notch Visitor Center to Hermit Lake Shelter.
Time: 1.5-2.5 hours depending on pace
Challenge Level: Moderate

Trail Down: Ski/Board down the John Sherburne Trail (Sherbie) accessed from Hermit Lake Shelter.
Distance: approx. 2 miles to south end of parking lot at Joe Dodge Lodge
Time: 10 - 40 minutes depending on pace
Challenge Level:  Moderate to Difficult (Black Diamond on a icy day)

GEAR
For this adventure, you need both winter hiking gear and ski/snowboard gear:

Wear:

Attach Skis to side of pack.  Put boots in pack.

- Winter hiking pants w long underwear
- Poly long sleeve top
- Fleece or 2nd non cotton layer
- Shell or Parka
- Warm Hat/Headband
- Gloves or Mittens
- Warm Socks
- Winter Hiking Boots/Snow Boots
- Traction (I wear MicroSpikes) or Skis with Skins*
- Ski Poles
- Sunglasses or Goggles

In Pack:
- Ski Boots
- Small First Aid Kit
- Extra Dry layer
- Ski Helmut (optional)
- Skis latched to outside of pack or Split Board*
- Camera (optional)
- Water and Snack
- Headlamp (just in case)

Tyler uses a split board and skis to ascend.

* Tyler chose to use a split board.  This is a snowboard that is split and allows the user to ski up the trail instead of hiking.  Skins (adhesive carpet like strands) are place on the bottom of skis to allow the user to ski uphill and not slide.  Once at the hut, Tyler re-configured his skis into a snowboard and flew down the Sherbie.

Oregon Coast Day Trip

Indian Beach, Ecola State Park, Oregon

My absolute favorite place on Earth is the Oregon Coast.  Growing up, my grandparents had a small vacation home in the town of Tolovana, near Cannon Beach.  We would sometimes go there on weekends and over school vacations.  I grew to love the long sandy beaches, enormous rock monoliths, and the small beach towns.  Every moment from the wet drive through the coastal range, to the cool breeze on a beach walk, to the small town bakery where I get my maple bar, takes me back to my childhood and a smile remains on my face.

It's no surprise that when I was visiting Oregon on my winter break, I asked my parents if they'd accompany me to a day at the coast.  Whether you are a Portland Oregonian looking for a spontaneous day trip or a first time Oregon visitor, this is a great way to spend a day in Oregon.

Day Trip Itinerary 

Sculpture outside Camp 18

Breakfast 
We stopped at my favorite (and well known) restaurant, Camp 18, for a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, fried razor clams, and biscuits.  If you haven't been here before, you should.  It is a large log cabin style building on Sunset Highway in Elsie, Oregon that boasts hearty meals and decor fit for a lumberjack.  The restaurant is a beautiful example of rustic log cabin architecture and has a true logger/hunter motif.
We always try to get a table in the back left corner of the main room to view the many bird feeders and stream below.  The meal portion size is enormous so it might be wise to split a meal...or come with a big appetite.  Before you leave, take a stroll around the grounds and admire the river, wood carvings, and logging museum memorabilia.





Indian Beach, Tillamook Lighthouse, and a HIKE!

Tillamook Rock Lighthouse

Since high tide prevented us from walking on the beach, we decided to head to Ecola State Park for a little hike.  To get there, take 101 west and take the City Center/Ecola State Park exit.  The park has a $5 day use fee to enter.  Park in the Indian Beach parking lot.  This is a great spot for photos of the rock monoliths and crashing waves.

We took the Clatsop Loop Trail which goes from the Indian Beach parking lot to the "Hiker's Camp".  Round trip the trail is 2.5 miles and is moderate to easy terrain.  Highlights of this hike include traveling through a coastal forest which is home to some of the largest Sitka spruce trees in the region.  My favorite part of the hike is the ocean side portion of the loop which takes you along Tillamook head and provides stunning views of the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse and Pacific Ocean.

Lunch
After the hike, we rested at Indian Beach parking lot where there are picnic tables overlooking the beach.  We enjoyed our packed lunch before driving back into the town of Cannon Beach.

Maple Bar at Cannon Beach Bakery

One Last Treat
A trip to Cannon Beach would not be complete without a visit to the Cannon Beach Bakery where I always get a Maple Bar*.

*To my East Coast friends- a maple bar is a donut type treat, but instead of a ring, it is shaped as a 6 inch bar and covered in maple frosting.  Mmmmm!

On the Road again
We left Cannon around 2 pm, making sure to get one last look at Haystack Rock before heading back home to Portland.


Recommendations for a winter day at the Oregon Coast:
- Bring Rain gear:  Weather is different than the valley.  You never know what it's going to be like, but it frequently is going to be windy or wet in the winter months.
- Walk:  This might be a long stroll on the beach or a hike in Ecola Park, but in order to appreciate the Oregon Coast, you need to take it slow and get into nature.
- Start traditions:  My family's traditions of stopping at Camp 18 and getting a maple bar in Cannon Beach allow me to reminisce and remember the good ol' days while continuing to have memorable experiences with those I love.  Create your own.
-Enjoy:  If you are expecting a San Diego style beach with sunbathing and calm seas, think again.  Enjoy the Oregon Coast in winter for what it is... as well as what it isn't.  This is a rugged stretch of nature that pummeled by strong waves and wet winds. Enjoy the solitude you can experience and the kiss of cold salt wind on your cheek.

I can't wait to return.

Grey Skies and grey water of the Pacific Ocean

Top 10 Things to Pack for a Fall Day Hike

Fall Hiking Trail

Fall is one of my favorite times to hike.  The temperature is often that perfect point where you aren't sweating from the heat and humidity and as you exert yourself, you warm up enough to wear a light sweater.  As the season progresses, the scenery changes as fall colors appear transitioning into trees going bear before the snow comes.  This time of year, hikers usually don't need additional traction (like snowshoes), and there are far fewer summer hikers to dodge and back up the trails.  All in all - fall hiking is the best!

Fall hiking can bring on additional challenges.  For example, shorter days mean less daylight, colder and more unpredictable weather, and the possibility of ice or snow on the trail.  It's very important to, as the Leave No Trace guidelines suggest- Plan Ahead and Be Prepared.

Before heading out for a day hike, use this list and check it twice....

Matt has all his gear in his day pack for a comfy fall hike.

1.  Non Cotton Clothing - You might have heard the term "cotton kills".  This is because wet cotton wicks heat away from your body.  Stick to these materials - nylon, poly, and wool, and don't wear jeans and a t-shirt!

2.  A Day pack - Find a sturdy backpack with a hip belt.  I use an old L.L. Bean school pack.

3. A Map - Don't try to save money or get lazy by not getting a map.  Trails can be confusing (especially in New England)  Don't leave home without one and don't rely on a phone.

4. Water - For an all day hike - at least 2 Liters, for 1-2 hour hike, one Liter should be fine.

5. A First Aid Kit - For a day hike bring sunscreen, band aids, a pocket knife, gauze/pad, tape, and benedryl/ibruprofen, space blanket, pencil, and paper.

6.  A Flashlight/Headlamp - These are life savers if you over estimate the hike length and loose daylight.

7.  Food - For a full day hike bring a meal + snack.  For a couple hours, bring a granola bar, piece of fruit, or trail mix.

8. A Rain Layer - Get a light weight waterproof jacket.  I also bring a pair of lightweight rain pants.

Fall colors in New Hampshire

9.  A Warm Layer - Bring a non-cotton warm layer like a fleece or wool sweater.  You might not need it at the start of the hike but if you stop for a snack, summit view, or first aid - you'll be glad you have it.

10.  Warm Hat and Gloves - If you are traveling up in elevation, this can really make your trip a happy one.

Optional:  I also bring the following...

* Camera - capture the memories
* Trekking Poles - protect your knees
 * Compass - it's only useful if you know how to use it
* Sunglasses - for the sunny days
* Identification (driver's license) - Just in case...

Enjoy the fall

With this list, you'll be able to have a comfortable and safe hike in fall!  

I welcome comments and questions below.

Cold Night on the Mountain

A night on Mt. Pierce, New Hampshire

View of Mt. Washington from Mt. Pierce 

This is the perfect adventure for the experienced hiker looking for a one night backpack with great views and cool weather.  

My friend Jenny and I decided to try our first overnight in early fall snow.  We went up Saturday, Oct. 13 and returned Sunday, Oct. 14, 2012.  We experienced amazing views, some icy trail, and uncrowded summits.

Saturday morning we drove up to the AMC Highland Center in Bartlett, NH and took the Crawford Path up to Mizpah Hut/Nauman Campsite.  The hike took us about 2 hours to get to the hut.  I was glad I had my trekking poles as the trail had some slick parts.  It would have been helpful to have traction in the form of microspikes or yak traks, but it wasn't absolutely necessary.

We set up camp at Nauman tentsite in a dusting of snow and summited Mt. Pierce at 5 pm and were back down at 6 pm as it was getting dark.  We got water and used the restroom in the hut (their last weekend open), then cooked dinner at our campsite.  Since the summer season had ended, camping was free.

Jenny and I at the summit of Mt. Pierce

Jenny and I agreed that the trip was overall wonderful, but it could easily have been catastrophic had we not prepared with 35 below sleeping bags, lots of warm clothing, and proper hiking gear.  Only hikers with experience and proper gear should try this weekend adventure.





Details:

Prepare for Cold

Hiking Challenge Level: Experienced
Camping Challenge: Experienced/Challenging

Gear: AMC White Mountain Map #3 (Crawford Notch-Sandwich Range), Overnight Backpack, Pants (3 layers, non cotton - shell, fleece, long underwear), Tops (5 layers, non cotton - long underwear, fleece, puffy, shell), gloves, hat, scarf, hiking boots, wool socks, 35 below sleeping bag, tent, sleeping pad, 2 L of water bottles, camp stove (whisperlite), fuel, food/hot drink mix, camera.

Directions to Trail Head:  Drive to North Conway, New Hampshire.  Take Rt 302 West into Crawford Notch State Park.  Park at AMC Highland Center.

Trail:  We took the Crawford Path from across the road from AMC Highland Center to the Mizpah Cutoff, stayed at Nauman Campsite.  Slackpacked up to the summit of Mt. Pierce and back down.  In the morning, we hiked out.

AMC Mizpah Hut is 1 min walk from our campsite