Family-Friendly White Mountain Weekend - Exploring Bethlehem, Whitefield, Franconia, Littleton, and Lancaster

We love the White Mountains.  From my years working for the Appalachian Mountain Club to Matt’s passion for rock and ice climbing - we are very familiar with its trails and towns…or so we thought.  It turned out we were really just familiar with one part of the White Mountains.  When my hiking friend, Stephen, invited us to stay at his short term rental/AirBnb - we discovered another region with charm, trails, and adventures.  From family friendly hikes, to delicious brewpubs, to historic sites - we had an amazing long weekend based in Whitefield, New Hampshire - the northwest corner of the White Mountains.

Weeks State Park - 7 minutes from our AirBnb

Here’s how to recreate this adventure:

Stay - Adventure Property in Whitefield, New Hampshire

We stayed at the Adventure Property in the small town of Whitefield, New Hampshire.  This multi-unit home offers a comfortable and affordable base camp to White Mountain adventurers.  It’s close to Franconia Notch State Park, Bretton Woods ski area, and many of the 4000 footer peaks.  It’s also a short distance to many other charming small towns like Bethlehem, Lancaster, Littleton, and Sugar Hill. 

We were guests at two of the three accommodations at the house- Adventure Property First Floor and Second Floor.  This gave us a private unit with two large bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a kitchen, and two living areas.  The property also has a studio apartment for rent. 

We loved the comfortable, clean, and spacious accommodations, proximity to adventure spots, and helpful host Stephen.  I highly recommend this property!

Adventure Property upstairs bedroom is
 a suite with its own living room area.

Exterior of Adventure Property - grill, seats, and fire pit

Food - Bethlehem, Sugar Hill, and Littleton

With our own kitchen at Adventure Property, we did a mix of eating out and cooking in.  All the restaurants we tried were phenomenal and we even went to two of them twice!  They were:

• Super Secret Ice Cream - James Beard Nominated ice cream parlor in Bethleham is known for seasonal homemade ice cream.  I recommend getting a “flight”.  We went twice!

• Polly’s Pancake Parlor - Tucked away in Sugar Hill, Polly’s is a James Beard Award Winner and New Hampshire Institution. Get there early to avoid a wait.  Matt loves the buckwheat pancakes and I love their maple butter spread.

• Rek Lis - This trendy brewpub in Bethlehem has great beers and homestyle artisan food.  The first night I enjoyed the duck tacos, then went back for the Salmon Sandwich.  The pub pretzel was super as well!

• Schilling’s Brew Pub - I’ll be honest - we chose Schilling for its charming location hanging onto the Ammonoosuc riverfront in Littleton. That said, it was the perfect spot for lunch with thin-crust wood-fired pizzas that the whole family enjoyed.

Great Beer in the area - Schilling Brewery

Duck tacos at Rek Lis Brewpub

Breakfast at Polly's Pancake Parlor

Ice cream flight with waffle cone chips
at Super Secret Ice Cream

Family Friendly Activities - Franconia Notch, Lancaster, Jefferson, and Littleton

When alone, I’m in this area to tackle some high peaks, but our goals as a family were different.  Fun, easy trails and activities that interested everyone.  There was plenty to explore and many more on our “to do” list!

• The Basin - This 0.8 mile out and back is located in Franconia Notch State Park.  Parking here is free and the trail is easy. We loved seeing the historic and natural wonder. 

• Flume Gorge - An iconic New Hampshire tourist destination, I’ve avoided this one in the past because of the cost ($18 adult, $16 kid plus online fees).  However, our rainy Saturday turned out to be the perfect day to visit.  The easy, 2 mile loop hike takes visitors past multiple waterfalls, through narrow gorges, and past a beautiful covered bridge. The kids favorite part was the (optional) wolf den cave crawl - they did that section three times.

• The Rocks Estate - This historic property in Bethlehem hosts nature trails, manicured gardens, a visitor center, and a working Christmas Tree Farm. We've enjoyed staying at the rental property here in the past and the kids requested a visit. We enjoyed the views (in the rain) and walked the nature trail to some of the historic outbuildings on the property.

• Mud Pond Trail, Pondicherry National Wildlife Refuge - This 1.2 mile trail in Jefferson is wheelchair accessible and perfect for all ages. A combination of packed gravel and boardwalk takes walkers to a viewing platform of Mud Pond. I was hoping for a moose sighting but no luck.

• Weeks State Park - Just up the road from our Adventure Property rental, Weeks State Park in Lancaster offers a perfect visit for families.  Located on top of Prospect Mountain, visitors can hike the peak or take the auto road.  We chose the auto road (free), and enjoyed our time at the summit by climbing the stone fire tower and walking the nature trail loop to the viewing platform.  There were gorgeous views of the surrounding peaks!

• Littleton Town Time - Our Sunday afternoon was spent walking around Littleton.  We shopped at the Shaun Terhune Gallery, Chutters Candy Counter, and Lahout’s Ski/Outdoor Shop. The kids also loved playing at the Remich Park Playground and the Harmony Park in the River District.

Flume Gorge, Franconia Notch State Park

The Rocks Estate, The Forest Society

Weeks State Park

Mud Pond Trail, Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge

Harmony Park, Littleton

Chutters in Littleton claims to have
the longest candy counter in the world

Until next time…

Our weekend in Whitefield was mostly a rainy one.  But even under gray skies, there was plenty to do and explore.  On the way home, the clouds parted and we were greeted to blue bird skies over the Presidential peaks.  It was so stunning, we decided to stop for one last hike up to Crystal Cascade at the Appalachian Mountain Club’s Pinkham Notch Visitor Center/ Joe Dodge Lodge.  This short, 0.7 mile out and back hike gives views to one of my favorite waterfalls in the Whites. 

It’s good to be home but dreaming of another family friendly visit to the White Mountains soon!

Crystal Cascade on the drive home

Consider these similar adventure:

Spring Family Weekend in the White Mountains

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5 Best Family Hikes in the White Mountains

Family Friendly Winter Hikes in the White Mountains

I am a monthly contributor to the website Seacoast Moms.  My writing for this site mainly focused on outdoor experiences for families of young children, however, my last two posts are useful for anyone thinking of starting to get into winter hiking!  

Artist Bluff in Winter, Franconia Notch

White Mountain Winter Hikes:

My recent post - Try a New Family Adventure: Winter Hiking in the White Mountains provides three great winter hike for anyone looking to see gorgeous views in a White Mountain winter. Check it out!

Me hiking Artist Bluff Trail in December 2019

Prepare with this Gear:

Also, if you haven't tried winter hiking before, check out my advice here  Although it's titled 

What You Need to Winter Hike with Baby - the footwear is critical for anyone taking that first step onto a snowy path.

Matt and son on a Crawford Notch trail - December 2019

Other Winter Hiking Posts:

Perfect Winter Hike for Toddlers

Winter Camping on Mt Pierce, White Mountains

Carter Notch Hut Trip in Winter

Welch-Dickey Loop - Amazing Views in the Heart of the White Mountains

View of Mt. Welch from Mt. Dickey on Welch-Dickey loop

I've been wanting to do this hike for a long time.  I mean - this is one of the most popular hikes in the White Mountains - and I'd never tried it!  So when my friend Sarah suggested we take the dogs for a late fall hike on the Welch-Dickey loop, I jumped at the chance.  It is easy to see why this trail is so popular - the 4.5 mile hike is a true loop that includes amazing mountain views without the need to go to 4,000 ft (the peaks are in the mid - 2000ft).  Late fall was a great time because the crowds were low and the weather still mild enough that we didn't need traction on our boots.  Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure:  Welch-Dickey Mountain Loop

Leaf-covered trail in November

Getting there:  The trailhead is located off I-93 near the town of Waterville Valley.  To get there, I took I-93 North to exit 28.  Drive East on Rt 49 toward Waterville Valley.  Turn left onto Mad River Road then turn right onto Upper Mad River Road.  Follow the "hiking" sign and turn left onto Orris Road.  The parking lot with be on the right with a well marked sign.

Trail:  The trailhead is at the end of the parking lot.  This is a true loop.  Just walk 0.1 mile down the trail and you'll come to the fork.  We decided to do a counter-clockwise loop by taking the right fork first.  This appeared to be the more popular direction, but hikers could enjoy either way with equal challenge-level.
     We followed the yellow blazes up a gradual and moderate climb.  Soon we popped-out onto a ledge and viewpoint.  I could see the Sandwich Range to the south and behind us, the summits of Welch and Dickey. We continued up granite slab, all-the-while enjoying the views.  We were lucky to hike the trail on a dry day, but I imagine this trail could be very dangerous if it was wet or icy.  From the summit of Mt. Dickey, we descended down a slab ridge.  This is your last time above the trees.  We enjoyed a snack and staring at the loop hike that we had almost completed.  Continue down the trail and in no time at all, you'll be back at the parking lot.
      The dogs handled this trail with no problems at all and we came across many other dogs on the trail.

Be prepared to walk up slab near the summit of both peaks.

Difficulty:  Moderate-  This trail starts out easy and turns to a moderate slab climb near the summits.  That said, if it's wet or icy, this trail could quickly become dangerous above treeline.  The granite slab is great for open views, but hikers should be careful when climbing.

Enjoying the view of Mt. Dickey from Mt. Welch

Distance: 4.5 mile loop

Recommendations:

- Get there early!  Even in November, the parking lot and trail is very popular. At 9 am the parking lot was mostly full.

- You will need a National Park/Forest parking pass or $3 per vehicle to park in the lot. Bring exact cash or check.  There are envelopes to deposit your money in near the trailhead sign.

- There are pit toilets at the parking lot.

- There is no cell service in the lot.  Plan accordingly.

Final ridge walk down from Mt. Dickey

- Remember that the Whites have their own weather.  It might be 70 and sunny in Boston, but icy trail conditions up north.  For late fall hikes, bring microspikes or other traction options just in case.  A warm coat, gloves, and hat are a must.

I loved this moderate loop.  It would be wonderful to try it in every season.  I can see why it's a favorite for hikers in the area.

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Summit gets some love!

Please leave comments and questions below.

One Night on Mt. Liberty

Summit of Mt. Liberty

With my big trip to Iceland, I didn't go on my usual summer backpack trips, and I've been aching to sleep in the woods.  With the weather turning cooler, I decided I better get out before I lost my opportunity for the year.  Fortunately, my friend Jenny, took me up on a last minute invite to spend the night near the summit of Mt. Liberty at the Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We were rewarded with early fall weather, summit sunsets, and a pleasant hike. Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Mt. Liberty Overnight Backpack

Jenny on the Liberty Spring Trail

Getting There:  Mt. Liberty is located along the famous and often visited Franconia Ridge in the White Mountains.  To get to the trailhead, I took I-93 north into Franconia Notch State Park.  You can park at either The Flume or The Basin parking area.  I choose The Basin.  Both parking areas are free to park and have pit toilets.  To access the trail, walk south on the paved bike path about 0.8 miles until you reach the Appalachian Trail/Liberty Springs trailhead.  Your hike starts here.

Trail:  We took the Liberty Springs Trail from the bike path all the way to the tentsite and summit.  This is also part of the Appalachian Trail and is marked with white blazes.  The first 0.6 miles gradually rises through a hardwood forest.  At 0.6 miles, you reach the junction of the Flume Slide Trail with the Liberty Spring Trail.  Many hikers choose to take this offshoot to the ridge at Mt. Flume and then loop back to Mt. Liberty.  I've tried it in the past and while it's enjoyable and fun, the Flume Slide Trail is challenging and difficult.  I decided it wouldn't be as fun with my large backpacking pack.

Loving Nature on the Franconia Ridge

From the junction, the trail gradually meandered up through the forest, crossing over a moderate river crossing (not bad in fall).  As we crossed into the boreal zone of conifers and evergreens, the trails steepness increased and the last 1.5 miles was like a long rock staircase.  The challenge of the hike came in the consistent steady uphill, but I would categorize it as fairly moderate since there was little to no slab or technical hiking involved.

At around 2 miles, we reached Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We checked in with the cartaker (still manned through September), paid our $8 a piece fee and were assigned our platform.  Due to to the high numbers of campers, we had to share a platform with another small tent.  Our AMC caretaker warned us of increased bear activity and reminded us to cook in the assigned area away from the tentsites and to keep all food and food-related materials in the bear boxes.

Rainy hike down...bring the right gear!

Jenny and I set up camp and left again to reach the summit.  Back on the trail, it was another 0.3 miles or so to the ridge junction.  From here, we turned right on the Franconia Ridge trail.  We hiked through low trees on a gradual rise until we popped out on the rocky summit of Mt. Liberty (about 0.3 miles from junction).  We reached the summit around 6:30 pm - just in time to admire the sun setting behind the western mountains.

We returned to camp, made our delicious dinner of burritos and settled into our tent for a cool night under the stars.

In the morning, we packed up and returned the same way - 2 miles back down the Liberty Spring Trail to the bike trail and 0.8 miles back up to The Basin parking lot.

Difficulty:  Moderate in fair weather

Bear Watch at Liberty Spring Tentsite

Distance: 5.2 miles on the trail (including summit) plus 1.6 miles on the bike path to the parking lot = 6.8 miles total.

AMC Liberty Spring Tentsite: The Appalachian Mountain Club maintains shelters and tentsites in the White Mountains.  During the busy season, a caretaker is there to help assign tent platforms, maintain the privy, and aid hikers.  There is an $8 fee per person.  This gives you access to the privy toilet (bring your own toilet paper!), bear boxes, and a water source.  In the summer the tentsites and shelters fill quickly, especially on weekends.  Make sure you get to your site early.  Even through it was mid-September, Liberty Spring Tentsite was completely booked by the end of the night.  We got there around 5 pm and there were still spots (although we had to share a platform).  This is a great way to backpack through the Whites with limited impact and guaranteed water/tentsite.

Recommendations:

- Check the Weather - Franconia Ridge is notorius for high winds and variable weather.  Although it was easily 80 F in The Basin parking lot, it was a cool 40 with windchill at Mt. Liberty summit.  We experienced hours of downpour overnight and woke up to drizzle in the morning.  Fortunately, we had checked the weather and were prepared with rain gear and warm layers.

View of Mt. Lafayette and Cannon Mountain from Liberty.

- Gear - Know what you need for an overnight.  Besides a tent, sleeping bag, and pad - overnight hikers need to be prepared with extra water, water purifier, stove, food, warm layers, and extra first aid materials.

Experiences sunset on the Franconia Ridge was a magical experience.  By spending a night up at Liberty Spring Tentsite, Jenny and I got to enjoy some of the best views and camping in the White Mountains at the beginning of fall.  I highly recommend a night near the ridge.

Please leave comments and questions below.  Don't forget to visit us on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TheFreelanceAdventurer

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Lonesome Lake - The Perfect Family Hike

View of Cannon Mountain from Lonesome Lake

Lonesome Lake is a perfect hike for kids!

There are a million hikes to choose in the White Mountains - long, short, steep, flat, wet, dry - the list goes on and on.  But if you are planning a hike for a three-year-old, you need to choose wisely.  In my most popular post "5 Best Family Hikes in the White Mountains", I suggest this jaunt up Lonesome Lake Trail to mountain views, bog-bridge trails through meadows, and a comfy lunch spot at the AMC Hut.  It was time to put it to the test. On this perfect summer day, my friend Ingrid and I took her two kiddies - one-year-old Georgie and a three-year-old Ilsa to this iconic spot in New Hampshire's Franconia Notch.  Read below to replicate our adventure...

Adventure: Day Hike to Lonesome Lake

Ilsa crosses a small brook near the campground.
(Photo by Ingrid)

Getting There:  The trail-head for Lonesome Lake is located in the popular Lafayette Campground in Franconia State Park.  The campground is only accessible from a southbound exit on I-93.  If you are coming from the south (like I was), pass the area and take the Cannon Mountain exit, where you can get back on I-93 South.  The parking lot fills quickly on weekends, so plan to get there early.  If you can't, you can park on the I-93 north side at the Falling Waters Trail and take the under-highway tunnel to the campground.

Trail: From Lafayette Campground, take the Lonesome Lake Trail (yellow blaze).  After about 0.4 miles, the trail reaches a junction with the Hi-Cannon Trail.  Continue on Lonesome Lake Trail through hardwood forest.  The trail is uphill but moderate - giving hikers stone steps to help them up steep sections and even a few switchbacks (unusual in the Whites!)  Continue another 0.8 miles (1.2 total now) to the east side of Lonesome Lake.  Take a left and travel Around Lonesome Lake Trail- getting glimpses (and sounds) of the lake and shore.  After about 0.4 miles, you will pass over a bridge that gives clear views of Cannon Mountain mirroring on the clear lake before reaching the platform/beach area and the stairs to the hut.

Ilsa enjoys a swim at Lonesome Lake (photo by Ingrid)

In the summer months, the beach area is a perfect spot to rest or swim in the summer time.  On a hot weekend day, plan on sharing the area with 10-20 people who share your love of nature.  From the swimming area, visitors can get a clear view of Franconia Ridge in the distance.

Bog Bridges Around Lonesome Lake Trail.

Don't forget to visit the hut for a cookie or cup of hot chocolate (and possible bathroom break) before continuing around the lake.  From the swimming area and hut, continue on the Around Lonesome Lake Trail another 0.4 miles onto a path of bog bridges that travels over fragile meadow and wetlands.  Sneak a peak in the small streams and you might see some small trout swimming in the shallows!  As Ilsa informed us, "It looks like a fairyland!"

Soon, you'll return to the junction with Lonesome Lake Trail.  Return the way you came.  If you are a lucky little girl, you might have your Auntie Lindsey carry you down so you can rest your little legs.  Back at the campground, use the restroom before returning to the car for the ride home.

Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

Distance: 4.2 miles round trip including doing the perimeter of the lake.

Recommendations:

Summit gets a swim in too!

- Set up your children for success.  Get them excited about their hike - tell them what they might see, what the trail will be like, etc.  Bring trail snacks, treats, a toy, and a change of clothes and towel (for swimming).

- Young children should not carry a backpack (unless they ask to).  Make the experience lighthearted and fun.  Give positive affirmations for good hiking behavior.

- Bring a back up carrier for little kids.  Our three-year-old hiker rocked the hike up (with a couple candy bribes and many stops), but was pooped for the downhill.  We were prepared with a backpack child carrier.

- Take advantage of the hut bathrooms and rooms to allow children to comfortably change clothing.  You can also refill potable water here.

- There is no charge for parking.

- Get to the parking lot early on summer weekends.  It fills quickly!

- Check the weather - the White Mountains are prone to afternoon thunderstorms and variable weather.  Plan ahead and be prepared!

Kids hang out at base of AMC hut.
(Photo by Ingrid)

It was a PERFECT day in the White Mountains -  clear, sunny, warm (but not hot), and not humid.  We all enjoyed our hike up the shaded trails of Lonesome Lake Trail to the sunny swimming beach at the hut shore.  If you are looking for a great kid-friendly hike or just a moderate hike of your own, you won't regret spending your day in Franconia Notch's Lonesome Lake.

You might also enjoy the following posts:
-  Sugarloafs - 2000 footers with Outstanding Views
-  Best Family Hikes in White Mountains, NH
- Livermore Trail - Easy Multi-use trail in the White Mountains

Please leave any questions and comments below.  Don't forget to like The Freelance Adventurer on Facebook and on Instagram @FreelanceAdventurer.

View of Franconia Ridge from west side of lake.

Guest Post: Mt. Pemigewasset Fall Hike

Mt. Pemigewasset Summit Views.  Photo by Bruce Hansen.

Trail Sign for Mt. Pemi

It may be hard to pronounce, but this hike is a must-do for people who love amazing views and are capable of making the moderate 3-mile round-trip trek.

From the summit, hikers are rewarded with vast scenic vistas of the White Mountain National Forest located near the high peaks of the Kinsman and Franconia mountain ranges.

On this hike, expect a varied trail leading under Highway 93, up a pleasant, flat path and ending with steepish bowling-ball to beach-ball sized rocks covered with tangled tree-roots.  Along the trail hikers can also expect some charming creek crossings and forest views.

After a rain, there could be mud in places.

Follow the Blue Blaze

Along with the view on top, hikers will find a genuine New Hampshire granite drop-off with no safety fences.  This is a wild and beautiful place.

Busloads of tourists come for the flume gorge hike, but walk right past the trailhead for this wonderful view-hike.  If you drive to Franconia Notch State Park, you'll have access to free parking and flush toilets as well as trail advice from park rangers.

It's best to park in the highest of the three lots and head towards the bike trail.  Quickly the footpath to Mt. Pemiewasset will be clearly marked with painted ablue blazes along the wooded trail all the way to the top.

Photos of fall colors on Mt. Pemigewasset hike

We saw people hiking with shorts and sneakers, but suggest Nordic walking sticks, ankle-supporting hiking boots and other standard hiking safety equipment, water and snacks.  It seems no one forgets to take a camera on this hike.  Afterwards you can tell your friends that you hiked to the top of Indian Head since only locals can pronounce Mt. Pemigewasset 

1. Golden Rd, Millinocket, ME 04462

.

Contact info:

Franconia Notch State Park

Flume Gorge

Daniel Webster Hwy

Lincoln, NH 03251

(603) 745-8391

Bruce Hansen

Meet the Expert : Bruce Hansen
Bruce Hansen is a world traveler and writer.  He is a frequent contributer to travel magazines including Rider and Canoe and Kayak.  His experience as a freelance motorcycle journalist has taking him on adventures around the world including long rides through New England.  His book Motorcycle Journeys Through the Pacific Northwest is available from Amazon and White Horse Press in Conway, NH.  

White Mountain Fall colors

Please leave comments and questions below...