Owl's Head 1 Night Backpack - The Most Remote 4000 footer

After our successful summer backpack to peak bag Mt. Isolation, Kelsey and I decided why not to use the same strategy to conquer the most remote 4,000 footer peak on New Hampshire's 48 list - Owl's Head.  

Owl's Head is located in the heart of the Pemigewasset  Wilderness.  The only way to access the summit is by first hiking into the center of this wilderness area, and then climbing up a steep slide.  As a day hike on maintained trails, this hike is 9.1 miles one way.  I know my knees...and an 18.2 mile day is not a great option for me. Our plan was to hike in, summit, then spend the night.  Making two days of about 9 miles each.  

The day before our backpack, a torrential storm doused the region with +6 in of rain and caused all the waterways to swell.  This wasn't good for us.  We had many water crossings.  So, we regrouped and decided to take the well known "Black Pond Bushwhack" which would eliminate all but two of the water crossings.  This plan proved to be extremely successful!  We had a really enjoyable time in the Pemi for a night and we were spoiled with perfect fall weather, foliage, and no bugs.  

Fall backpacking means mild weather and no bugs!

Here's how to recreate this adventure:

Adventure

One Night Backpack to Owl's Head Peak in the White Mountains, New Hampshire

Getting There

This hike is accessible from one of the most popular trailheads in the Whites - The Lincoln Woods Trailhead.  Located just 4 miles down the Kancamagus Highway from the town of Lincoln, this parking area is easily accessible.  However, it fills quickly.  Knowing it was going to be a nice fall weekend, we arrived at 8 am.  There were still a few spots left in the lot.  Parking costs $5 a day here.  Bring cash or a check.  We used our national park pass so didn't have to pay the iron ranger.

Trail

From Lincoln Woods Trailhead, we took the Lincoln Woods Trail to the Black Pond Trail.  At Black Pond, we continued onto the Black Pond Bushwhack (not marked).  This bushwhack took us to Lincoln Brook trail and cut out many river crossings and shortened the hike by a mile! Next, we took Lincoln Brook and set up camp at our first large river crossing (see below).  We did both river crossings and took Owl's Head path up the slide to the summit.  Coming off the summit, we opted to take the Brutus Bushwhack back to Lincoln Brook and return to camp.  The following day we returned to parking the same way we arrived.  

Our Route

Here is a more detailed itinerary:

Start - 8:30 am - We sign into the ranger log, cross the Lincoln Woods pedestrian bridge and head north on Lincoln Woods trail.  The river was raging and the fall foliage peak. It was a long, flat walk but really really beautiful. There weren't many other hikers at this time of day. We 

Black Pond - We turn off the Lincoln Woods trail and hike the 0.8 mile trail to Black Pond.  This trail had a slight uphill grade but was still pretty easy.  It went through hardwoods forest and emerged with a beautiful view of a small mirrored pond and mountains behind it.  

Black Pond Bushwhack -  Although the trail officially ends with the pond on the right.  We continued straight onto the bushwhack.  Knowing we wouldn't have cell service, we had downloaded the Gaia and AllTrails maps.  Even without cell service, we were able to follow our trek on the digital maps.  While the bushwhack is fairly obvious, the recent dropped leaves made it somewhat challenging to follow the trail.  Both these maps systems are only available for subscription holders.

Lincoln Brook Trail  - 10:30 am - The bushwhack popped us out at the Lincoln Brook trail. We turned left and followed the trail as it parallels Lincoln brook.  The trail is fairly easy - a low inclining grade with few challenges except for some mud and puddles.  It is not blazed (which really surprised me).

River Crossing and Camp - 12:00 pm - At noon, we reached the first crossing of Lincoln Brook.  Kelsey noticed the cliff above us has a plateau and scrambles up to find a nice dispersed/impacted camp site.  We set up our tent, have a lunch break and pack small bags for the rest of our journey.  After securing camp, we cross this section and soon after another.  Kelsey stayed dry with waterproof boots and gaiters.  I brought a pair of sneakers to get wet wading the crossings.  

Owl's Head Path/Slide - After the crossings, we found the two cairns that signal the Owl's Head Path.  The climb is steep and involves quite a bit of lose rock.  As we climbed the slide, the views behind us got better and better.  It was a clear day and we had fun identifying the various peaks of Franconia Ridge.  We paused for a long break and enjoyed the view. 

Summit - 2:40 pm - After the slide, the hike continues through woods, past a false summit and eventually ends at lack luster small cairn signaling the true summit.  Prior to this, however, you get one more small view of the Bonds across the Pemi.  We summited at 2:40 pm, took a selfie and then turned around.  

Brutus Bushwhack - At 3:10, we reached the offshoot to the Brutus Bushwhack.  Again, our Gaia maps were very helpful in finding this.  The bushwhack is located near the end of the slide at a large moss covered boulder.  The day we did it,there was also a small cairn at it's base and on its top.  The bushwhack is steep but on soft ground through the woods.  It was a little tricky to follow at times, but eventually we got back to Lincoln Brook path - very close to the second water crossing.  

Camp - 4:10 pm - We crossed both rivers again and returned to our camp just after 4 pm.  We made an early dinner, filtered water from the brook, changed into warm clothes, played cards and were in bed by 7 pm.  We secured food using an ursack.  In the morning, we got up around 7 am, made breakfast, packed up and took off at 8:20 am.

Brutus Bushwhack - 9:25 am - About an hour later, we reached the Brutus Bushwhack.  We retraced our steps back to the pond, then Lincoln Woods Trail.  We got back to the parking lot at 11:30 am.  Our hike was complete!

Lincon Woods Trail

Rules and Regulations

Disperse Camping

You do not need a permit to hike and camp in this region. Disperse camping is camping outside a designated campground or tent site.  It is not allowed everywhere so make sure you know the rules and regulations of the area you are planning to camp.  The section of trail we camped (Lincoln Brook Trail) is in the Pemigewasset Wilderness that is part of the White Mountain National Forest.  Rules for this area are:

• Limit group size to 10 people
• Camp at designated sites OR at least 200 feet away from trail, water source, or campground.
• No mechanized equipment is allowed

You can learn more about these rules on the US Forest Service Website.

In addition, it's important to practice Leave No Trace including the proper disposal of human waste and removal of all toilet paper and trash.

Water was easily accessible from the river, but it is important to treat water since it can harbor pathogens and bacteria - even in the wilderness.  I used the Sawyer Squeeze as my main form of water treatment.  

Lastly, I recommend purchasing and carrying a New Hampshire Hike Safe Card.  For $25 a year, you are covered financially if you need to be rescued.

Our Campsite

Gear and Apparel

For a fall one night backpack in the White Mountains I brought the following:

• 10 Essentials - My choices for products are on my Hiking Necessities List.  This includes first aid, hat, compass, headlamp, and more
• Tent and Tent Accessories
• Trekking Poles
• Sleeping Bag
• Sleeping Pad
• Stove, Pot, Fuel
• Bear Bag
• Food for Dinner, Breakfast, Lunch and Snacks
• Bag with electronics: Charger, cord, lantern
• Clothes: Rain gear, puffy coat/mid layer, sun shirt, base layer/sleeping layer, extra underwear and socks, extra shorts, camp shoes (crocs)
• Trash bag
• Water filter
• Poo trowel, toilet paper, and bags to hike out with it
• Toiletries: Sunscreen, bug spray, toothbrush, toothpaste
• Deck of cards

For questions about gear, DM on my instagram and I'm happy to provide guidance!

Kelsey and I at the summit of Owl's Head

Final Recommendations/Things to Consider

• This was a great one night backpack for someone who wants a quick escape.  Although most of the hike is easy, the scramble up Owl's Head Path is challenging and would be quite dangerous in foul weather.    Be prepared and turn around if you are above your ability level.
• Always tell someone your plan.  For safety, carry the 10 essentials.  You will not have cell service any of this hike.
• I suggest downloading a set of maps from Gaia or AllTrails prior to your hike.  Bring a cell phone battery pack to make sure you don't lose access to those maps.  In addition, carry a traditional map and compass.
• In order to reduce weight while summiting, you can set up your camp and then ascend with a "slack pack".  
• Be aware of wildlife. This is quite a remote area of the Whites.

Beautiful Views on the Slide

You might also like these adventures:

- One night on Mt Liberty
- Carter Notch One Nighter in Winter
- Mt Garfield One Night Backpack
- One Night Backpack up Mt Isolation

Morning light on the Lincoln Brook Trail

Morgan and Percival Loop: Ladders, Caves, and Amazing Views

Somehow I'd gone this far being an avid New Hampshire hiker without even hearing about the Mount Morgan and Mount Percival peaks.  Then, thanks to social media, I've been seeing photos of people climbing ladders, pushing packs through narrow rock holes, and enjoying stunning views on these lakes region peaks.  The first chance I got, I wrangled two work friends into joining me and we thrilled at the Morgan and Percival loop hike.  

Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Mount Morgan and Mount Percival Loop 

Getting there: These lakes region peaks are located near Squam Lake in Center Sandwich, New Hampshire.  To get there from the Seacoast, I took 101 West to 93 North.  From there, take exit 24 onto Route US-3, NH-25 toward Ashland/Holderness.  Follow US-3 for 4.5 miles, then turn left onto NH-113.  The trailhead will be on the left after 5.5 miles. There is an overflow parking lot across the street, however, be warned - this trail has been extremely popular this summer and even on a weekday morning, my friend and I got the last spot open at 10 am.  Weekday hikers should plan for 9 am or earlier and weekend possible earlier!

After ladders, hikers crawl through cave on Mount Morgan

Trail: 

    Both peaks can be hit in a loop.  It was recommended to travel clockwise - hitting Mount Morgan first.  To do this, from the trailhead, hike about 0.1 mile to the junction where the trails meet.  Veer left on the Mount Morgan trail.  The trail ascends consistently through hardwood forest with moderate terrain.  The trail leads to a set of three ladders that allows you to climb a rock face.  THIS IS OPTIONAL!  My friend Kaley and her dog took the bypass while Danielle and I took the ladders.  Footwork is a little tricky on the third ladder.  Once up the ladders, the trail continues through a short and narrow cave.  Crawl through the rock and you will climb out onto a beautiful ledge with stunning views of the lakes and peaks below.  I really enjoyed this experience but those who are afraid of heights, struggle with mobility, young children, dogs, and large packs should take the bypass.  

    After the ledge, there is a short and somewhat difficult slab with high exposure to get to the near-summit view.  We spent a good half hour on this ledge view where the two trails meet up again.  From there, you will head back into the woods and pass the official summit of Mount Morgan (no view).  Continue onto the Crawford-Ridgepole trail through short, dense forest to Mount Percival.

    Mount Percival's summit has even more expansive views of lakes and peaks below.  The challenging portion of Mount Percival is directly below the summit - where hikers quickly descend into a boulder field followed by caves and rock outcrops.  At one point, we all had to remove our packs (even my small one) to descend a vertical drop into a hole.  I felt like Indiana Jones!  Looking at the map, there is a bypass for this as well, however we didn't take it.  This would be impossible for a large dog that could not be carried, a large pack (like baby carrier), or those with mobility issues.

    After the exciting caves, continue a moderate/steady descent on the Mount Percival Trail.  To get back to the parking lot, take the Morse Trail at the junction (unless you parked at the Percival parking lot), to return to your car.  

Crawling over boulders and caves on Mount Percival

Difficulty: Moderate with (optional) sections of difficulty - ladders, caves, and rock ledge/boulders

Distance: Entire loop is 5.1 miles

Enjoying the view on Mount Morgan, New Hampshire

Recommendations: 

- Take the clockwise loop with Mt Morgan first. This way you will be going with the flow of other hikers and also won't have to go down ladders.

- Parking is limited and fills fast on this popular hike.  Also, we did not have cell service in the parking lot.  Plan ahead and have a back up plan if the parking lot is full.  Street parking is prohibited. 

- There are no bathroom facilities available.

- Dogs are allowed on the trail but it is not advisable to take dogs on ladders and caves.  Take the optional bypass.  

- I do not advise carrying a baby-carrier on this hike.  The cave crawling is narrow and tight.  It would be extremely challenging and possibly unsafe to travel with a baby.

- Weather watch - ladders and caves are dangerous when wet.

- Practice LNT, practice social distancing, and wear a mask.

- Want to see what I packed for this hike? Check it out at my IGTV.

You might also enjoy these similar adventures:

- 5 Miles, 3 Peaks, 1 Loop: Day Hike in New Hampshire's Lakes Region

- Welch-Dickey Loop

- Mt Carrigan Loop

Mount Washington in Fall

We weren't planning on summiting that day.  My parents had agreed to watch the kids while we took an "adult hike".  I let my husband choose - knowing he would pick something around Mt. Washington - his favorite peak.  We started from Pinkham Notch Joe Dodge in the clouds and fog.  The visibility in Tuckerman Ravine was awful, but wanting to get a little more exercise we decided to climb the Boot Spur Link up to Boot Spur Trial.  As we continued along the ridge, I heard Matt call "LOOK!".  The clouds parted and we were soon looking at Mt. Washington with a backdrop of blue.  Below us the under-story of clouds provided a blanket over the valley.  It was then we decided to go for the summit.

Boot Spur to Tuckerman Ravine Trail

Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure:  Mt.Washington summit loop via Tuckermas, Boot Spur, Davis, Tuckermans, Nelson Craig, Alpine Garden, and Lion's Head.

Getting there: Our adventure began at AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.  To get there, take Route 16 north out of North Conway.  At the 302/16 intersection, turn right to stay on Route 16.  About 11 miles from the intersection you will reach the visitor center on the left.  There is a large parking lot, AMC visitor center/dining hall and Joe Dodge Lodge.  The Tuckerman Ravine trailhead is located directly behind the main visitor center building with a well marked sign and is the starting point for many of the other trails that come off it.

Crystal Cascade on the Tuckerman Ravine Trail near Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.

Trail: This hike involved many trails.  There are numerous stories of people who have gotten lost in this region.  It is important to use a AMC trail map (available for purchase in the visitor center) and familiarize yourself with it before departure.  Below is the way we took...

Part 1: Visitor Center to Hermit Lake Shelter
We started by taking the Tuckerman Ravine trail from Pinkham Notch.  This trail is wide, a steady uphill, and uneven terrain.  My mom once asked "Is this a dried up river bed?" and that statement perfectly describes the trail.  Along the way, enjoy views of Crystal Cascade - a photogenic waterfall.  This section is 2.4 miles one way and ends at a shelter deep in Tuckerman's Ravine.

Part 2:  Hermit Lake to Boot Spur
From Hermit Lake Shelter, we took the Boot Spur Link...up.  I've taken this trail with Matt a few years ago, and we took it down.  It's one of the steepest trails I've ever done in the White Mountains and not for the weak knees.  When you get to the ridge, the link meets up with Boot Spur Trail.  Continue up the Boot Spur trail until you at the Davis Path intersection. This section is 1.3 miles.

Part 3: Davis Path to Tuckerman Junction
From Boot Spur, take the Davis Path toward the summit.  This exposed rocky trail is marked with cairns.  Turn right at the Lawn Cutoff and continue towards the summit.  Clear days provide stunning views of Mt. Washington's summit and surround ridges.  The Lawn Cutoff ends at Tuckerman Junction where five points of trail meet. This section is 1.0 mile.

Part 4: From Tuckerman Junction, take Tuckerman Ravine Trail the last half mile to the summit.  This steep climb is covered in boulders and extremely exposed and steep.  Emerging at this peak can be somewhat anticlimactic since the Auto Road and Cog railway brings non-hiking tourists to the summit it can be crowded and busy.  This section is 1.0 mile.

View of the Mount Washington summit from the top of Boot Spur

After a warm beverage and bathroom break in the summit's visitor center, we headed back down a different way.

Part 5: Nelson Craig Trail to Alpine Garden
From the summit, we took the Nelson Craig Trail which parallel's the Auto Road.  At the Huntington Ravine Trail, we turned right for a short distance until it met with the Alpine Garden Trail. Huntington Ravine Trail is dangerous and never recommended for decent. We decided to take the Alpine Garden trail which cuts back along the ravine and reconnects with Lion's Head trail and Tuckerman Ravine Trail. This section is 1.9 mile.

Part 6: Lion Head Trail to Tuckerman Ravine Trail
After 0.9 miles of the Alpine Garden Trail, it reaches Lion's Head Trail.  From here we took the steep and sometimes technical Lion Head Trail down the mountain.  At 1.1 miles, it reconnects with Tuckerman Ravine trail just below Hermit Lake.

Part 7: Tuckerman Ravine Trail to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center
We finished the hike by retracing steps down the river-bed-like Tuckerman trail back to the Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.  This is about 2 miles. Done!

Photo of Map. All hikers should have a purchased AMC map.

Difficulty: Strenuous and Challenging

Distance: 10.7 miles using this path.

Fall Foliage at its best on the Tuckerman Ravine Trail

Recommendations:

- Each year there are tragic stories of injury and even death on Mt. Washington. This peak boasts the most extreme weather in the world and hikers often underestimate the challenge because its relatively low elevation.  Plan ahead and be prepared.  Matt and I each packed multiple layers including base layers, rain layers, and multiple poly blend warm layers - plus warm hats, gloves, and scarves.  We carried 2 L of water a person, food, and a large first aid kit.  We also carry the AMC map. Be prepared to scrap your plans based on weather.

- Parking is available at Pinkham Notch visitor center but is very popular and crowded in summer.  Plan ahead by getting there early.

Although Mount Washington wouldn't have been my choice of hike that day, I cannot imagine a better day to summit.  We were lucky with weather, visibility, and trail conditions.  Less than 48 hours later - the entire peak was covered in ice and snow.  Be safe out there!

Views from Alpine Garden Trail

You might also enjoy...

- Mt Osceola via Tripoli Road

- Mt Carrigan Loop

- One Night on Mt Liberty

Liebeskind's Loop, Lila's Ledge, and George's Gorge in Winter

View from Lila's Ledge of Pinkham Notch, NH

I guess I should apologize... I've been off the blog for a few months.  For those of you who don't know, I'm in the third trimester of a pregnancy and that, combined with the poor snow season, has kept me out of the White Mountains and instead exploring hikes near home.  This weekend however, I did manage to get up north for a birthday hike.  Due to my current preggo-state, I opted for a shorter hike that still promises awesome views and a moderate challenge.  This approximately two mile loop provides great views of Wildcat Mountain, Pinkham Notch, and Tuckerman's Ravine.  In winter, you have the additional benefit of little to no crowds and clearer views between leafless trees.

Here is how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Leibeskind's Loop, Lila's Ledge, and George's Gorge

Trail through George's Gorge

Getting there:  The trailhead is located at the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on Rt 16.  From North Conway, take 16 North.  At the 302/16 light, turn right to continue on 16.  Drive 20 minutes and the visitor center will be on the left.  Walk past the visitor center to the main trailhead sign and continue straight onto Old Jackson Road/AT.

Trail:  From the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center, take Old Jackson Road (AT) 0.3 miles to the junction with the Crew Cut trail.  This is a wide, gentle incline and popular trail.  After the small footbridge, take a right onto Crew Cut trail.  The Crew Cut is a narrow offshoot.  It winds up for 0.3 miles passing the left hand entrance of George's Gorge trail.  Continue straight and follow signs to Lila's Ledge.  It is a 0.1-2 offshoot from Crew Cut.

From Lila's Ledge, you can see Wildcat Ski area, Pinkham Notch/Rt 16, and Mount Washington via Tuckerman's Ravine.  It's a GREAT view for such a short little hike.  Return back to Crew Cut and from here, take Liebeskind's Loop Trail to start looping back.  This 0.5 mile section winds up and down along tall rocks and on narrow trail.  You will pass a viewpoint named Brad's Bluff that give more magnificent views of Mount Washington before reaching the George's Gorge Trail.  From here, you can either continue 0.3 miles uphill back to Old Jackson Road trail or take a left and return via George's Gorge (0.5 mi) to the original Crew Cut/Old Jackson Rd section.

Icy Trail

On this day, we decided to get back to Old Jackson Road quickly since many portions of the narrow loop were very icy.  Back on Old Jackson Rd, we enjoyed the leisurely, wide trail back to Pinkham Notch Visitor Center.


Difficulty:  For this area of the White Mountains, this trail is Easy-Moderate.  However, on this day, there had been little snow and the trails were sheets of ice in many places which made it increasingly difficult even with proper traction.  Be sure to come prepared with proper winter gear.

Distance: 2-3 miles (depending on which offshoot/loop you do)


Recommendations: 

- This is a great little hike near the visitor center.  In the summer, it's a perfect stroll for families or someone looking for a short hike with a great view.

- Lila's Ledge is a dangerous overlook - especially in winter.  Watch your dogs, children, and yourself when navigating onto the ledge.

- In winter, weather conditions can change quickly in the notch with little warning.  Even for a short hike, plan ahead and be prepared for ice, snow, wind, and rain.  We wore multiple (non-cotton) layers, winter boots, microspikes, ski poles, and packed a winter emergency kit, AMC Presidential Map (#1), water, and snack.

- Warm up afterwards in the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor Center with some hot chocolate or coffee. Get advice from the AMC guides and employees on winter conditions.

This was a great way to spend my birthday and finally get up to the White Mountains for a little adventure.  Even 7 months pregnant, I was able to get great views of notch and some of my favorite peaks.

Visit to Sabbaday Falls later that day

You might enjoy these winter hikes as well...

Carter Notch Hut in Winter

Skiing the Sherbie

Cold Night on the Mountain

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Mt. Carrigain Loop - 4000 footer and more

View of Mt. Carrigain summit as you approach from Signal Ridge Trail

A perfect fall day was improved by a White Mountain hike with two of my favorite girls.  We started the adventure with a plan to summit the 4700 ft Mt. Carrigain as an out-and-back hike.  Once on the summit, the ideal weather made us long for more, so we continued down Desolation Trail to Carrigain Notch Trail - making a sweet 13.5 mile loop.  It was a great way to enjoy the mountains, views, and friends.

Adventure: Mt. Carrigain Loop

Trailhead across from parking lot.

Getting There: From southern New Hampshire, we took Highway 16 north to North Conway.  Here we took Rt 302 North/East towards Crawford Notch State Park.  Just after the town of Bartlett, take a left on Sawyer River Road (closed in winter).  The road is across from Fourth Iron Tentsite and if you enter Crawford Notch State Park, you've gone too far.  Drive up Sawyer River Rd about 2 miles.  A signed parking lot is on the left and the trail is on the right.  There are no bathrooms and no cell service at the trail head.


Trail:  The adventure starts with Signal Ridge Trail.  The trail parallels a brook and is relatively flat for the first couple miles.  It winds through beautiful hardwood forest.  At 1.7 miles, you reach the junction for Carrigain Notch Trail.  Stay left to summit.  As we continued, the trail rapidly changed to a steady uphill climb.  The hiking isn't difficult (no slab or boulders), but the constant up can be very tiring and strenuous.  From the junction, continue 3.3 miles until you reach the summit.  Hikers can climb the fire tower for a 360 degree of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

Summit of Mt. Carrigain

After enjoying our lunch in the sun, we decided to continue our adventure by making our hike into a loop (adds 3.5 miles to the previously planned out-and-back).   Desolation Trail was a steep grade - narrow, mossy rocks made for a slow and cautious decent.  At 1.9 miles Desolation reaches Carrigain Notch Trail.

Continue along Carrigain Notch Trail over a relatively flat path.  We crossed streams and were surrounded by more hardwood forest.  There were few other hikers on the remote trail and we enjoyed the solitude and easy hiking.  After 4.1 miles on Carrigain Notch Trail, you meet back with Signal Ridge Trail.  Take the 1.7 flat trail back to the parking lot.   It was a wonderful long loop and I highly recommend it!





Difficulty: Moderate - Difficult.  The trails themselves aren't too bad (although Desolation had it's difficult moments), but the long trail and sustained hiking makes this day hike for experienced hikers only.

Descent on Desolation Trail

Distance:  13.5 miles for complete loop.  10 miles for an out-and-back to Mt. Carrigain.

Recommendations:  

- Even though half of this loop is on flat ground, two of us ran out of water on the last couple miles.  Bring over 2 liters when traveling over ten miles.

- There was no cell service at the parking lot or along the hike.  Make sure loved ones know where you have gone and when to expect you back.

- There are no water or bathroom facilities at the trailhead nor along the hike.  Plan ahead and be prepared.

- Sawyer River Road is closed in winter.  Be aware of road conditions if planning your hike for late fall - early spring.

Summit the Dog on Carrigain Notch Trail

I LOVED this hike with my friends Courtney and Ingrid.  I'm so grateful to have friends who share my love of nature and the great outdoors.  Consider this for your next big day hike!








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Best of Friends on the Mt. Carrigain Fire Tower!

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One Night on Mt. Liberty

Summit of Mt. Liberty

With my big trip to Iceland, I didn't go on my usual summer backpack trips, and I've been aching to sleep in the woods.  With the weather turning cooler, I decided I better get out before I lost my opportunity for the year.  Fortunately, my friend Jenny, took me up on a last minute invite to spend the night near the summit of Mt. Liberty at the Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We were rewarded with early fall weather, summit sunsets, and a pleasant hike. Here's how to recreate this adventure...

Adventure: Mt. Liberty Overnight Backpack

Jenny on the Liberty Spring Trail

Getting There:  Mt. Liberty is located along the famous and often visited Franconia Ridge in the White Mountains.  To get to the trailhead, I took I-93 north into Franconia Notch State Park.  You can park at either The Flume or The Basin parking area.  I choose The Basin.  Both parking areas are free to park and have pit toilets.  To access the trail, walk south on the paved bike path about 0.8 miles until you reach the Appalachian Trail/Liberty Springs trailhead.  Your hike starts here.

Trail:  We took the Liberty Springs Trail from the bike path all the way to the tentsite and summit.  This is also part of the Appalachian Trail and is marked with white blazes.  The first 0.6 miles gradually rises through a hardwood forest.  At 0.6 miles, you reach the junction of the Flume Slide Trail with the Liberty Spring Trail.  Many hikers choose to take this offshoot to the ridge at Mt. Flume and then loop back to Mt. Liberty.  I've tried it in the past and while it's enjoyable and fun, the Flume Slide Trail is challenging and difficult.  I decided it wouldn't be as fun with my large backpacking pack.

Loving Nature on the Franconia Ridge

From the junction, the trail gradually meandered up through the forest, crossing over a moderate river crossing (not bad in fall).  As we crossed into the boreal zone of conifers and evergreens, the trails steepness increased and the last 1.5 miles was like a long rock staircase.  The challenge of the hike came in the consistent steady uphill, but I would categorize it as fairly moderate since there was little to no slab or technical hiking involved.

At around 2 miles, we reached Liberty Springs Tentsite.  We checked in with the cartaker (still manned through September), paid our $8 a piece fee and were assigned our platform.  Due to to the high numbers of campers, we had to share a platform with another small tent.  Our AMC caretaker warned us of increased bear activity and reminded us to cook in the assigned area away from the tentsites and to keep all food and food-related materials in the bear boxes.

Rainy hike down...bring the right gear!

Jenny and I set up camp and left again to reach the summit.  Back on the trail, it was another 0.3 miles or so to the ridge junction.  From here, we turned right on the Franconia Ridge trail.  We hiked through low trees on a gradual rise until we popped out on the rocky summit of Mt. Liberty (about 0.3 miles from junction).  We reached the summit around 6:30 pm - just in time to admire the sun setting behind the western mountains.

We returned to camp, made our delicious dinner of burritos and settled into our tent for a cool night under the stars.

In the morning, we packed up and returned the same way - 2 miles back down the Liberty Spring Trail to the bike trail and 0.8 miles back up to The Basin parking lot.

Difficulty:  Moderate in fair weather

Bear Watch at Liberty Spring Tentsite

Distance: 5.2 miles on the trail (including summit) plus 1.6 miles on the bike path to the parking lot = 6.8 miles total.

AMC Liberty Spring Tentsite: The Appalachian Mountain Club maintains shelters and tentsites in the White Mountains.  During the busy season, a caretaker is there to help assign tent platforms, maintain the privy, and aid hikers.  There is an $8 fee per person.  This gives you access to the privy toilet (bring your own toilet paper!), bear boxes, and a water source.  In the summer the tentsites and shelters fill quickly, especially on weekends.  Make sure you get to your site early.  Even through it was mid-September, Liberty Spring Tentsite was completely booked by the end of the night.  We got there around 5 pm and there were still spots (although we had to share a platform).  This is a great way to backpack through the Whites with limited impact and guaranteed water/tentsite.

Recommendations:

- Check the Weather - Franconia Ridge is notorius for high winds and variable weather.  Although it was easily 80 F in The Basin parking lot, it was a cool 40 with windchill at Mt. Liberty summit.  We experienced hours of downpour overnight and woke up to drizzle in the morning.  Fortunately, we had checked the weather and were prepared with rain gear and warm layers.

View of Mt. Lafayette and Cannon Mountain from Liberty.

- Gear - Know what you need for an overnight.  Besides a tent, sleeping bag, and pad - overnight hikers need to be prepared with extra water, water purifier, stove, food, warm layers, and extra first aid materials.

Experiences sunset on the Franconia Ridge was a magical experience.  By spending a night up at Liberty Spring Tentsite, Jenny and I got to enjoy some of the best views and camping in the White Mountains at the beginning of fall.  I highly recommend a night near the ridge.

Please leave comments and questions below.  Don't forget to visit us on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TheFreelanceAdventurer

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Knife Edge Crossing

Kelly crosses the Knife Edge Trail on Mt. Katahdin, ME

Last year, I hiked Mt. Katahdin in Maine over Columbus Day weekend.  For my first ascent, my friend Sarah and I took the steep Abol trail up and the long Hunt Trail (AT) down.  This year, I decided to tackle it again - this time taking a stab at the infamous Knife Edge Trail to the summit.  This narrow and exposed ridge line has a reputation for one of the most challenging hikes in the Northeast, and was on my bucket list as a "must- try". My sister, Kelly, agreed to conquer the mountain with me.  It was an amazing adventure.



Here is a peek at our adventure...

Driving into Baxter State Park

Abol Campground, Baxter State Park

Permits - Baxter State Park requires visitors to have a permit to enter, stay, and camp in the park. Maine residents get dibs on early reservations.  Read your reservation carefully.  Day reservations must be claimed by 7 am on the day or they are given away.  Camping reservations ensure your spot for the day as well as a parking spot.
 Reservations can (and should) be made ahead of time.  Even trying one month ahead, we did not get our first choices on campgrounds.  Try MULTIPLE months prior to ensure you get your site.  Rules and cost about reservations can be found HERE or by calling park headquarters at (207) 723-5140.

Lil' Abol Falls near Abol Campground

Camping - We arrived at Baxter State Park on Saturday mid-day.  It was about a 5 hour drive from southern New Hampshire.  I had made reservations to spend our first night at Abol Campground.  We arrived at Abol, set up camp, and took a few small hikes around the park - Lil' Abol Falls and Elbow Pond.  These were pleasant short hikes with awesome views.  The second night, we spent at Roaring Brook Campground.  This is where we hiked to-and-from our Katahdin climb.

Both Abol and Roaring Brook Campgrounds had roomy, nature sites with fire pits.  There is no running water available.  Campers can treat river water or drive in their own. Firewood can be purchased from the camp ranger.  Outhouse/Privy toilets are available as well.  We stayed in a tent site at Abol and a lean-to site at Roaring Brook.  Both were spacious and comfortable.  I highly recommend the campgrounds.

On the Summit of Mt. Katahdin

Route - The goal of our trip was to tackle Mt. Katahdin from the Knife Edge trail.  This notorious trail is a highly exposed 1 mile stretch of ridge between Pamola Peak and Baxter Peak (highest point on the mountain).  This ascent should only be attempted under fair and dry weather conditions.  During October, while it felt like fall at the base, it was winter above, so adequate cold-weather gear was an additional necessity besides water, food, map, compass and first aid.

Kelly and I got up at 5 am, packed up at Abol campground and drove to the other side of the mountain.  We arrived at Roaring Brook Campground, in the dark, at 6 am.  After securing our packs, and signing into the ranger station, we were on the trail by 6:30 am - just as a sun was rising.

Cold summit of Mt. Katahdin

We took the Helon Taylor Trail up.  The trail was rocky and moderate as it ascended through the woods.  At 2 miles we passed the treeline and were rewarded with amazing views of the fall foliage below.  Rocky slab made for a tiring but still-moderate climb.  At 3.3 miles we summited Pamola Peak (4,902 ft).  This peak gives views of the Knife's Edge all the way to Baxter Peak.

The Knife Edge begins by steeply descending onto the base of the "Chimney" - a rocky point along the relatively smooth ridge-line.  From here, the climb just gets harder.  And it is...A CLIMB!  All extremities were needed to then climb up and then back down the steep outcrop.  In addition to the technical climbing (no ropes or anchors available), the exposure makes the experience that much more harrowing.  I'll be honest - I was terrified during the chimney portion on the climb.  After the first half mile, the trail becomes less steep but still very exposed.  Although scary, this trail awards its climbers with the most amazing views on the mountain and peaks.  From Pamola Peak, the Knife Edge is 1.1 miles to Baxter Peak - the summit of Mt. Katahdin (5,269 ft).

Looking over the Knife's Edge, Mt. Katahdin

It was a relief to reach the summit. The peak was crowded with hikers.  We took a photo at the iconic Mt. Katahdin sign and ate a quick lunch.  The cold weather, crisp wind, and sweaty clothes made us both cold, and it was uncomfortable sitting for long.  The year prior, I had worn a light sweatshirt and spent over an hour on the summit on the same weekend.  Now, ice and frost covered the rocks and alpine plants.  Its was a harsh place.

From the summit, we continued onto the Saddle Trail.  This 2.2 mile section took us to Chimney Pond junction.  The trail started with a gradual descent across a plateau.  Afterwards, a steep 0.2 mile section took hikers down what essentially is a slide.  Although less-technical than Knife's Edge, this section was still challenging and strenuous.  Watch for falling rocks.  After the slide, the trail became moderate once again, eventually leading us to the Chimney Pond and camp.

"Easy" part of the Saddle Trail

The Chimney Pond trail took us the last 3.3 miles back to Roaring Brook.  This easy- moderate trail
travels through Maine woods wilderness.  We hoped to see a moose, but alas, they stayed in hiding.

We returned to Roaring Brook Campground at 3 pm.  In total, our 9.9 mile hike took us nine hours.  It was great to get back, set up camp, eat some dinner and crash for the evening.

The next morning, sore and happy, we packed up and returned to New Hampshire.  We had achieved our goal.

Katahdin Views

Advice -

- Book your reservations WAY in advance!   We originally wanted to spend the night at Chimney

Lake near entrance of Baxter State Park

Pond Campsite, but a month in advance was not enough to get a spot - even on a cold fall weekend.  

- Know the rules about parking and permits.  Last year, I lost my reservation because I entered the park after 7:30 and my permit had been given away.  Check the website and rules!

- Be prepared for all kinds of weather. Last year I wore a light shirt and summer hiking pants.  This year I was donned in full ski gear.  Bring multiple layers of clothing and remember - Cotton Kills!

- Bring plenty of water or a way to treat water in the park.  The water source is the local streams and rivers and should be treated to prevent water-born illnesses.

- Don't count on Millinocket meeting all your shopping needs.  It is a small town and does not have many amenities.  You can only buy firewood in the campgrounds ($3).  

- Watch the weather.  Knife Edge can result in a deadly climb if attempted at bad weather.  Check in with the Rangers for up-to-date trail conditions before you climb.  

- Explore other parts of the park.  The lakes, waterfalls, and hardwood forest is incredibly pristine and beautiful!

A great hike up Mt. Katahdin

Please leave comments and questions below...