My 74-year-old mom, generously treated me to this once-in-a-lifetime adventure with Baja Expeditions in San Ignacio Lagoon to get close encounters with the gray whales that go there to winter, breed, and calf. As a self-identified “whale-hugger”, former whale naturalist and marine biologist - this experience had been on my bucket-list for a long time. This was more than a vacation, more than an adventure…for me - it was a religious experience and the ultimate privilege.
Here’s the breakdown of my experience:
Getting to Baja: Cabo San Lucas
We flew into Cabo San Lucas on February 22 and intentionally arrived a day early. Baja weather and small plane schedules can shift with wind, and coming from the east coast, I didn’t want travel delays to impact my ability to get to remote San Ignacio. Arriving early also allowed us to take advantage of the included Cabo activities offered through the program.
My mom arranged a private car transfer, about 45 minutes, into town. We stayed at Los Milagros Hotel, just two blocks from SeeCreatures, which is the meeting location for the San Ignacio excursion.
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| Cabo San Lucas, Mexico |
Cabo Day 1
We walked down to the marina and had Mexican food at a restaurant set up under a tent right on the water. Pelicans dove dramatically for fish while boats rocked in the harbor. It felt good to trade New Hampshire winter for sun and salt air.
Cabo Day 2
We had brunch at Casasola Cafe and Brunch and wandered again along the marina and beach. In the afternoon we took advantage of the offered photography class with SeeCreatures - run by Australian Ryan Sault and gave us good tips for getting video and photos on our excursion. Next, we took advantage of the included humpback whale watch in Cabo with SeeCreatures. We saw a mama and calf, multiple breaches, and the iconic El Arco glowing at sunset.
Dinner was casual and delicious at Tacos Guss on the same block as our hotel. It is cash only, though U.S. dollars are accepted. They bring out an enormous tray of salsas and fillings so you can build your own tacos.
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| Amazing humpack whale watch in Cabo San Lucas |
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| Sunset in Cabo San Lucas |
The Flight North to San Ignacio Lagoon
The next morning we checked out early and arrived at SeeCreatures at 6:15 a.m. A continental breakfast was waiting, and from there we were transported to the private aviation side of the Cabo airport.
We boarded a 14-person Cessna and flew two hours north over desert coastline and salt flats until we reached San Ignacio Lagoon dirt airstrip. It really felt like a remote adventure! On arrival, the camp staff was waiting with champagne and SUVs to drive us and our luggage to camp.
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| Our plane to San Ignacio Lagoon |
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| Amazing views on the way to San Ignacio Lagoon |
Camp Life with Baja Expeditions
The Baja Expeditions camp is a temporary eco camp built for the four month whale season. There are three levels of tents. We stayed in the highest tier called Luxury. Our tent included: real beds with linens, carpteted floors, small living room, and a built in bathroom with a camper-style toilet, sink, and shower.
The camp was separated into three groups based on your level of luxury and about 20-25 guest in each section with their own staff. For our group we had a beautify dining tent, bar tent, and the whole camp shared a “dive bar” built out of an old school bus. It felt remote but comfortable. You are absolutely off the grid, yet thoughtfully cared for.
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| Our Luxury Glamping Tent |
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| Dining tent |
The Daily Rhythm
Each day followed a steady structure:
Made-to-order breakfast
Two 90-minute morning whale watches
Lunch back at camp
One 90-minute afternoon whale watch
Cocktail hour and snacks
Dinner
Evening naturalist program
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| Daily Schedule |
The guides are professional marine biologists. The whale watch boats are 10-person dory-style boats captained by local fishermen. Some guests skipped certain outings to relax, book a massage, or sleep in.
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| The larger group was divided in to boats with up to 9 guests in each. |
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| Close encounters were common, but touching was not. Although everyone in our 24 person group touched once! |
I chose to skip one afternoon whale watch to visit the local village and participate in sea turtle tagging with Eco Tortugas. It was a meaningful look at conservation work happening in the community.
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| Releasing a young green sea turtle after measuring and tagging her. |
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| Measuring the turtle with Eco Tortugas |
A Protected Whale Sanctuary
San Ignacio Lagoon is part of El Vizcaíno Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Whale watching here is tightly regulated and highly limited:
A set number of boats allowed in the observation zone
Daily patrols by enforcement officers
No feeding or chasing whales
Boats immediately back off during mating behaviors
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| Some whales were friendlier than others. |
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| I got to "pet" a gray whale on my first whale watch. On the rest of the days, I stepped back so others got a turn. |
We saw the sherrif patrol boat every single day. The respect for the animals is not performative. It is enforced.
The gray whales approach on their own terms. The interaction happens because they choose it.
Every whale watch was special. Some days whales approached our boats (all 24 people in our group got to touch a whale once on the trip). One day we got to observe (from a respectful distance) males doing their mating ritual **including a rare sighting of the male gentialia - called the “pink floyd”, a mama and calf swim by, and lots of spy hopping and a few breaching behaviors. My favorites were when the whales swam close to the boat - the spray of their breath hitting you, hearing the breath, and watching their shadows go under the boat. And of course my absolute favorite part was touching it.
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The Cost
This is not an inexpensive trip. The 4 day, 3 night Baja Expeditions experience ranges from $2,600 to $3,100 per person depending on tent level.
This price includes: the small plane flight from Cabo, all meals at camp, all whale watches, and the naturalist programming.
Not included in the expedition cost was gratuities (approximately $300), alcohol ($5 to $10 per drink), massages, Turtle tagging experience ($40 cash), Cabo hotel nights, and our flights in and out of Cabo.
My mom treated me to this experience because it was outside my personal travel budget and she wanted us to share something meaningful together. I am deeply aware of the privilege of that gift.
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| Amazing star viewing from camp at night! |
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| I enjoyed cocktail hour at the "dive bar" after our afternoon whale watches. |
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| The staff took your meal orders the day before so it was ready for when you came to dinner. The food and service were superior. |
Packing Tips
You are limited to a 22-pound soft-sided suitcase due to the small plane, so pack strategically.I brought: wind/hiking pants, sun shirts, warm layers for cool mornings, a lightweight puffer, and sneakers. Weather ranged from 90 F early afternoon to 40 F at night. Desert climate!
The sun is super intense at the lagoon. I highly recommend bringing: neck gaiter/buff, wide-brim hat, polarized sunglasses to cut the glare and see the whales.
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| Even though its warm, everyone covers up from the sun. Highly recommend a neck gaiter/buff. They provide the white boots. |
Baja Expeditions provide waterproof boots, windbreakers, and sunscreen, although I preferred using my own wind layer.
Most guests simply brought phones for photography. I bought a go pro for the trip and was able to get some underwater video/photos when the whale was close to the boat.
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| I was able to get some underwater shots close to the boat with my new go pro. |
Final Thoughts
If wildlife and conservation-centered travel matter to you, San Ignacio Lagoon deserves a place on your radar. This was the trip of a lifetime.
It is not just a trip. It is an encounter.
You might also enjoy these similar adventures:
- A week in Costa Rica on the Papagayo Coast
- The Ultimate Iceland Road Trip
- Florida Keys - National Parks and Wildlife
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